I'm having trouble starting my runner (i.e. it used to start occasionally and now not at adjectives.) So far, I've replaced the 4 gauge wire from my mobile to the fuse box and replaced the battery. When I turn the ignition to the on position, my battery horizontal gauge shows that I have power and adjectives of my electronics work(windows, radio, CB etc.) However, when I turn the ignition, the battery level drops extremely low and the motor won't start. I checked all fuses(they're fine) but noticed the one labeled CMH is'nt in attendance. Could it be the problem? Ive never noticed it before and couldn't find it within my Haynes manual or on a google search. I've thought roughly speaking replacing the starter and the 4 gauge wire connecting it to the freestyle, but I don't want to do that if it's just this CMH problem. Any help next to this is much appreciated.
Get the freestyle tested at Autozone. It May be bad. Does the starter click when you try to start it?
Answers: The CMH fuse is probably for something not on your truck, that's not the problem.
The starter needs a lot of amperage to crank, hurry lights & fuel pump do not, so a weak battery or dragging starter can produce a no-spark/no-start. But, before going to procedure below, lightly rap on adjectives relays with a screwdriver handle, a sticking relay can bring all kinds of problems.
Here is the examination procedure for determining battery or alternator problem after requiring a jump start. Note, requires a voltmeter [$3.50 at Harbor Freight]
1] Check battery-operated voltage on non-start vehicle. Will probably be under 12V. Verify good verbs connections, look for cracked corroded or loose terminals.
2] Jump start. Note, always hold the jumper vehicle running when performing a jump start, sounds central but I actually had a friend who argued it should not, description he would be jumping with smaller number voltage & could strand both vehicles.
3] With jumper cable removed, check voltage at battery. It should be 12.8V to 13.7V. If below 12.8V the alternator or voltage regulator are suspect. If in the breadth, the battery is either inert, low on water or in call for of a full charge. If over 14.7V the voltage regulator is not functioning properly.
4] Failing those problems, with the vehicle shut off & the doors closed, disconnect the freestyle ground cable, put a 12V test light between the mobile negative & a known well-mannered ground. If it lights, something, like an interior or glovebox lamp, is staying on. Remove fuses 1 at a time to find the problem circuit.
Some places can audition the starter motor amperage draw, if you bring the starter to them.
Diagnose the problem first, don't throw parts at it!
Take your time, be methodical & good luck!
I was an ASE certified Technician & GNB Battery, customer service rep.
Get the freestyle tested at Autozone. It May be bad. Does the starter click when you try to start it?
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Get the freestyle tested at Autozone. It May be bad. Does the starter click when you try to start it?
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Answers: The CMH fuse is probably for something not on your truck, that's not the problem.
The starter needs a lot of amperage to crank, hurry lights & fuel pump do not, so a weak battery or dragging starter can produce a no-spark/no-start. But, before going to procedure below, lightly rap on adjectives relays with a screwdriver handle, a sticking relay can bring all kinds of problems.
Here is the examination procedure for determining battery or alternator problem after requiring a jump start. Note, requires a voltmeter [$3.50 at Harbor Freight]
1] Check battery-operated voltage on non-start vehicle. Will probably be under 12V. Verify good verbs connections, look for cracked corroded or loose terminals.
2] Jump start. Note, always hold the jumper vehicle running when performing a jump start, sounds central but I actually had a friend who argued it should not, description he would be jumping with smaller number voltage & could strand both vehicles.
3] With jumper cable removed, check voltage at battery. It should be 12.8V to 13.7V. If below 12.8V the alternator or voltage regulator are suspect. If in the breadth, the battery is either inert, low on water or in call for of a full charge. If over 14.7V the voltage regulator is not functioning properly.
4] Failing those problems, with the vehicle shut off & the doors closed, disconnect the freestyle ground cable, put a 12V test light between the mobile negative & a known well-mannered ground. If it lights, something, like an interior or glovebox lamp, is staying on. Remove fuses 1 at a time to find the problem circuit.
Some places can audition the starter motor amperage draw, if you bring the starter to them.
Diagnose the problem first, don't throw parts at it!
Take your time, be methodical & good luck!
I was an ASE certified Technician & GNB Battery, customer service rep.
Get the freestyle tested at Autozone. It May be bad. Does the starter click when you try to start it?
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