I purchased this car during the summer, and only just had a tremendously big problem shifting. I replaced the Clutch Master Cyl. and the problem was gone. A Month subsequently, I had a floppy clutch pedal and my mechanics told me it be the master cylinder again. This solved the problem. Soon afterwards, the clutch started to slip drastically after driving the car for roughly speaking 20 mins. I replaced the clutch and for a little while the motor worked fine. Then the pedal went floppy again. AFTER BEING VERY FED UP WITH THIS PROBLEM I approved to bite the bullet and get a exotic master cylinder put in at the dealership. The clutch pedal is very soon fine but the clutch is slipping drastically again. The clutch cant be going bad... its brand trial. I read somewhere that when you replace the Clutch Master Cyl. you need to replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder as capably. The slave appears to be in appropriate shape and is not leaking. Has this happen to anybody else? Should I go next to the new slave cyl?
Answers: yes replace the slave cylinder and manufacture sure that all the atmosphere is bled out of the clutch master cyl., the slave cyl., and the hose. Even though the slave cylinder is not leaking the cup inside may be worn and the fluid pressure is leak past it. Usually when this is the casing, the clutch will disengage when the pedal is pushed but as the pedal is held down the clutch will start slowly engaging as the pressure bleeds past its sell-by date. The other thing to check is the actuator rod between the slave cyl. and the release arm. Some are adjustable. If your's is, adjust it so that the rod is basically snug against the release arm. Also make sure that the clutch pedal freeplay is correct. There should be something like 1/2 to 1 inch of freeplay in the pedal back the clutch starts to disengage. There should be an adjustable rod between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder. If all of this is in step properly then check the reverse main crankshaft trademark of the engine to see if there is an engine grease leak to be exact saturating the clutch disc. A devout indicator of this is motor oil adjectives over the bottom outside of the clutch housing and the oil tub between the engine and transmission. If you hold a leaky rear leading seal that leak enough to drizzling the clutch, then replacing the clutch is pointless untill the soak is stopped.
YES. i would and have done so within my car. this will fix it for another 40k
Why does my motor clunk within the...
Answers: yes replace the slave cylinder and manufacture sure that all the atmosphere is bled out of the clutch master cyl., the slave cyl., and the hose. Even though the slave cylinder is not leaking the cup inside may be worn and the fluid pressure is leak past it. Usually when this is the casing, the clutch will disengage when the pedal is pushed but as the pedal is held down the clutch will start slowly engaging as the pressure bleeds past its sell-by date. The other thing to check is the actuator rod between the slave cyl. and the release arm. Some are adjustable. If your's is, adjust it so that the rod is basically snug against the release arm. Also make sure that the clutch pedal freeplay is correct. There should be something like 1/2 to 1 inch of freeplay in the pedal back the clutch starts to disengage. There should be an adjustable rod between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder. If all of this is in step properly then check the reverse main crankshaft trademark of the engine to see if there is an engine grease leak to be exact saturating the clutch disc. A devout indicator of this is motor oil adjectives over the bottom outside of the clutch housing and the oil tub between the engine and transmission. If you hold a leaky rear leading seal that leak enough to drizzling the clutch, then replacing the clutch is pointless untill the soak is stopped.
What could raison d`¨ētre a 1.5L civic...
YES. i would and have done so within my car. this will fix it for another 40k
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