We have a 1999 Chevy Lumina v6 3.1 engine, we drove it the other night and the coolant table lamp came on, it eventually overheated. We added fluid and drove carefully to carry home. We replaced the water pump today because it wasn't holding fluids.drove it and it overheated again! It has fluid but it leak when it was parked, didn't all dribble out though what is on the agenda for fixing this? What could it be and how much money are we looking at?
did you inspect to hoses, they may have hole in them or you may also hold a air lock in the cooling system. these two concept are very low cost, execept the antifreeze. good luck
Take a look at the intake gaskets. Also, check your grease and see if it looks like antifreeze is mixing with it. It will look approaching a creamy milky textured substance. If there is intermix, do not drive it or even start it. That will eat your engine contained by no time. Have it towed, or repair it yourselves. Those engines are bad on intake gaskets and head gaskets. If it is intake gaskets, roughly 600.00, if it is also organizer gaskets, closer to 900.00 to 1200.00 depending on the shop's labor rate. If you were close to me, 400.00 :D
With the engine just warm (make sure the temp. guage on the run is just barely above 'Cold'), CAREFULLY plain the cap on the top of the radiator, pausing after the first lifting from the hold-down ears to permit any possible bit of steam pressure bleed off before removing the trilby completely. Start the engine and allow it to run at a moderately fast idle (be sure the parking brake is set SECURELY & and you or someone helping you may want to sit and hold just enough pressure on the accelerator to profess the fast idle) until the temp. gauge on the rush shows normal operating temp. Then, using a flashlight, look inside the filler nozzle at the top of the radiator and observe if here is activity of the cooling water flowing across, above the top of the tube opening and downward through the tubes constantly, or if the water is moving slowly and beginning to roast up and start steaming--maybe rising up and overflowing from the filler nozzle. If such looks like it's going to happen, shut the engine rotten immediately and stay away from the radiator fill nozzle long plenty to feel sure that no sudden eruption might come out the filler nozzle. If this occurs, it shows that the engine is NOT getting proper circulation of cooling marine (hopefully with a proper percentage of a name brand anti-freeze therein contained) through the cooling jacket around the combustion chamber of the engine. It could be the water pump or a corrosive build-up inside the channels and chamber of the water jacket or both. If the water pump is topical and the proper water pump for the vehicle (who did the work of replacing it?) it should not be at fault if properly installed. The leak you thought was from the water pump after the post-repacement overheating probably be overflow from the steam-presured radiator through the overflow pipe which discharges downward to the ground. I suspect your next best step would be to find a good friend who would know how and be feeling like to do a flushing out of your cooling water system or go to a honest, well-recommended auto mechanic to ask him what he would recommend. Good luck.
did you inspect to hoses, they may have hole in them or you may also hold a air lock in the cooling system. these two concept are very low cost, execept the antifreeze. good luck
IM ALMOST FOR SURE U HAVE A AIR POCKET IN YOUR COOLING SYSTEM THERE SHOULD BE A SCREW ON TOP OF YHE THERMASTAT HOUSING RUN THE MOTOR TILL NOMAL OPERATING TEMP AND OPEN THE SCREW U WILL FIND AIR IN THE SYSTEM.
With the engine just warm (make sure the temp. guage on the run is just barely above 'Cold'), CAREFULLY plain the cap on the top of the radiator, pausing after the first lifting from the hold-down ears to permit any possible bit of steam pressure bleed off before removing the trilby completely. Start the engine and allow it to run at a moderately fast idle (be sure the parking brake is set SECURELY & and you or someone helping you may want to sit and hold just enough pressure on the accelerator to profess the fast idle) until the temp. gauge on the rush shows normal operating temp. Then, using a flashlight, look inside the filler nozzle at the top of the radiator and observe if here is activity of the cooling water flowing across, above the top of the tube opening and downward through the tubes constantly, or if the water is moving slowly and beginning to roast up and start steaming--maybe rising up and overflowing from the filler nozzle. If such looks like it's going to happen, shut the engine rotten immediately and stay away from the radiator fill nozzle long plenty to feel sure that no sudden eruption might come out the filler nozzle. If this occurs, it shows that the engine is NOT getting proper circulation of cooling marine (hopefully with a proper percentage of a name brand anti-freeze therein contained) through the cooling jacket around the combustion chamber of the engine. It could be the water pump or a corrosive build-up inside the channels and chamber of the water jacket or both. If the water pump is topical and the proper water pump for the vehicle (who did the work of replacing it?) it should not be at fault if properly installed. The leak you thought was from the water pump after the post-repacement overheating probably be overflow from the steam-presured radiator through the overflow pipe which discharges downward to the ground. I suspect your next best step would be to find a good friend who would know how and be feeling like to do a flushing out of your cooling water system or go to a honest, well-recommended auto mechanic to ask him what he would recommend. Good luck.
IM ALMOST FOR SURE U HAVE A AIR POCKET IN YOUR COOLING SYSTEM THERE SHOULD BE A SCREW ON TOP OF YHE THERMASTAT HOUSING RUN THE MOTOR TILL NOMAL OPERATING TEMP AND OPEN THE SCREW U WILL FIND AIR IN THE SYSTEM.
Answers: Did you replace the thermostat? If this was stuck closed, you could have smoothly overheated it. Also, check to make sure the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator is tight. When you had the dampen pump replaced, did you have a full system flush? If not, it's a great idea to hold done, as this will clear any impurifications out of the water lines. Have ALL of the hoses checked for leaks, plentiful hoses will not leak until the engine is up to full operating temperature. Doing adjectives of these will ensure that your water system is closed, and prevent anything happening surrounded by the near future. Good luck.
Take a look at the intake gaskets. Also, check your grease and see if it looks like antifreeze is mixing with it. It will look approaching a creamy milky textured substance. If there is intermix, do not drive it or even start it. That will eat your engine contained by no time. Have it towed, or repair it yourselves. Those engines are bad on intake gaskets and head gaskets. If it is intake gaskets, roughly 600.00, if it is also organizer gaskets, closer to 900.00 to 1200.00 depending on the shop's labor rate. If you were close to me, 400.00 :D
When u revise sports car grease does...
Check the radiator and pipes first. Radiator can rust and sprin a leak. With a small slick it will leak when hot and not when cool. Gaskets tend to leak adjectives the time.did you inspect to hoses, they may have hole in them or you may also hold a air lock in the cooling system. these two concept are very low cost, execept the antifreeze. good luck
Why does my motor toy with poorly...
Take a look at the intake gaskets. Also, check your grease and see if it looks like antifreeze is mixing with it. It will look approaching a creamy milky textured substance. If there is intermix, do not drive it or even start it. That will eat your engine contained by no time. Have it towed, or repair it yourselves. Those engines are bad on intake gaskets and head gaskets. If it is intake gaskets, roughly 600.00, if it is also organizer gaskets, closer to 900.00 to 1200.00 depending on the shop's labor rate. If you were close to me, 400.00 :D
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Sorry, the saloon is almost ten years old. If you overheated it, expect head gaskets, intake gaskets, and manager machine shop work. The guy that said 9-12 hundred was somewhat close on a ballpark price, providing you didn't ruin the pave the way from your negligence.With the engine just warm (make sure the temp. guage on the run is just barely above 'Cold'), CAREFULLY plain the cap on the top of the radiator, pausing after the first lifting from the hold-down ears to permit any possible bit of steam pressure bleed off before removing the trilby completely. Start the engine and allow it to run at a moderately fast idle (be sure the parking brake is set SECURELY & and you or someone helping you may want to sit and hold just enough pressure on the accelerator to profess the fast idle) until the temp. gauge on the rush shows normal operating temp. Then, using a flashlight, look inside the filler nozzle at the top of the radiator and observe if here is activity of the cooling water flowing across, above the top of the tube opening and downward through the tubes constantly, or if the water is moving slowly and beginning to roast up and start steaming--maybe rising up and overflowing from the filler nozzle. If such looks like it's going to happen, shut the engine rotten immediately and stay away from the radiator fill nozzle long plenty to feel sure that no sudden eruption might come out the filler nozzle. If this occurs, it shows that the engine is NOT getting proper circulation of cooling marine (hopefully with a proper percentage of a name brand anti-freeze therein contained) through the cooling jacket around the combustion chamber of the engine. It could be the water pump or a corrosive build-up inside the channels and chamber of the water jacket or both. If the water pump is topical and the proper water pump for the vehicle (who did the work of replacing it?) it should not be at fault if properly installed. The leak you thought was from the water pump after the post-repacement overheating probably be overflow from the steam-presured radiator through the overflow pipe which discharges downward to the ground. I suspect your next best step would be to find a good friend who would know how and be feeling like to do a flushing out of your cooling water system or go to a honest, well-recommended auto mechanic to ask him what he would recommend. Good luck.
did you inspect to hoses, they may have hole in them or you may also hold a air lock in the cooling system. these two concept are very low cost, execept the antifreeze. good luck
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we had the same article happen in indistinguishable car as you have a couple of years rear legs. our problem was that the radiator hose kept getting cut by a fan and the coolant would ooze out. open the hood and on the left side in attendance is a hose that is shaped like an 's' discern it for cuts and replace if needed. costs really cheap and can be replaced by yourself, all you need is a wrenchIM ALMOST FOR SURE U HAVE A AIR POCKET IN YOUR COOLING SYSTEM THERE SHOULD BE A SCREW ON TOP OF YHE THERMASTAT HOUSING RUN THE MOTOR TILL NOMAL OPERATING TEMP AND OPEN THE SCREW U WILL FIND AIR IN THE SYSTEM.
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With the engine just warm (make sure the temp. guage on the run is just barely above 'Cold'), CAREFULLY plain the cap on the top of the radiator, pausing after the first lifting from the hold-down ears to permit any possible bit of steam pressure bleed off before removing the trilby completely. Start the engine and allow it to run at a moderately fast idle (be sure the parking brake is set SECURELY & and you or someone helping you may want to sit and hold just enough pressure on the accelerator to profess the fast idle) until the temp. gauge on the rush shows normal operating temp. Then, using a flashlight, look inside the filler nozzle at the top of the radiator and observe if here is activity of the cooling water flowing across, above the top of the tube opening and downward through the tubes constantly, or if the water is moving slowly and beginning to roast up and start steaming--maybe rising up and overflowing from the filler nozzle. If such looks like it's going to happen, shut the engine rotten immediately and stay away from the radiator fill nozzle long plenty to feel sure that no sudden eruption might come out the filler nozzle. If this occurs, it shows that the engine is NOT getting proper circulation of cooling marine (hopefully with a proper percentage of a name brand anti-freeze therein contained) through the cooling jacket around the combustion chamber of the engine. It could be the water pump or a corrosive build-up inside the channels and chamber of the water jacket or both. If the water pump is topical and the proper water pump for the vehicle (who did the work of replacing it?) it should not be at fault if properly installed. The leak you thought was from the water pump after the post-repacement overheating probably be overflow from the steam-presured radiator through the overflow pipe which discharges downward to the ground. I suspect your next best step would be to find a good friend who would know how and be feeling like to do a flushing out of your cooling water system or go to a honest, well-recommended auto mechanic to ask him what he would recommend. Good luck.
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IM ALMOST FOR SURE U HAVE A AIR POCKET IN YOUR COOLING SYSTEM THERE SHOULD BE A SCREW ON TOP OF YHE THERMASTAT HOUSING RUN THE MOTOR TILL NOMAL OPERATING TEMP AND OPEN THE SCREW U WILL FIND AIR IN THE SYSTEM.
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Answers: Did you replace the thermostat? If this was stuck closed, you could have smoothly overheated it. Also, check to make sure the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator is tight. When you had the dampen pump replaced, did you have a full system flush? If not, it's a great idea to hold done, as this will clear any impurifications out of the water lines. Have ALL of the hoses checked for leaks, plentiful hoses will not leak until the engine is up to full operating temperature. Doing adjectives of these will ensure that your water system is closed, and prevent anything happening surrounded by the near future. Good luck.
Take a look at the intake gaskets. Also, check your grease and see if it looks like antifreeze is mixing with it. It will look approaching a creamy milky textured substance. If there is intermix, do not drive it or even start it. That will eat your engine contained by no time. Have it towed, or repair it yourselves. Those engines are bad on intake gaskets and head gaskets. If it is intake gaskets, roughly 600.00, if it is also organizer gaskets, closer to 900.00 to 1200.00 depending on the shop's labor rate. If you were close to me, 400.00 :D
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