I have a '95 Chevy 2500 w/ 350 converted diesel that keep shutting off unexpectedly, no sputter or anything, sometimes it will crank right rear legs upand sometimes it takes a few mins. what doyou surmise?
Fuel usually sputters and loses power and slowly dies. Electrical is close to turning off the knob switch. Based on that, I'd guess electrical.
Check the connections and make sure everything on the harness is plugged within as it should be.
On the off haphazard it might be fuel, I'd also check the valve and see if fuel is present, or if it have sucked some air within. A crack in a fuel file will let nouns in which might impose the same symptoms. The nouns hits, and that's all she wrote type piece.
I'd guess electrical. Do you get any check engine lights?
I have a Ford that used to do that and it never showed a code or check engine light. Turned out to be a connector that go bad on the ignition module. We found it by have the truck run and then go through and gave the electrical harness a shake. After a bit, we found the one that killed the truck. I took it out, cleaned the terminal and applied dielectric grease to keep it verbs then reassembled. Been 100% ever since.
Answers: It could be the fuel supply (as in fuelpump "dropping power"), -which equates posterior to electrical! You might have a unpromising connection, and when "gravity"moves wires to a certian position, - (as contained by a turn or hitting a bump), - you experience a momentary loss of power somewhere between fuelpump and battery circuits. Observe what position(vehicle seem to be in), or what you are doing at time it quits -- if possible. This will clear it easier to determine most likely place to look!
You can also work down electric wiring loom towards fuel pump and see if "flexing wires" back and forth, - up and down make the problem occour. When it happens you are somewhere close to problem.
You don't mention where on earth you live, - northern states that use salt on roads experience profoundly of corrosion problems in flex junctions that are not "warterproof", - so when you carry near place where on earth the problem is and it interrupts power, - peel the electrical system loom cover off (usually black cartridge wrapping), and check where-ever you have wires combined to a "mainline".
Also you might check all plug connections where on earth the wires can be disconnected without adjectives. These tend to get impossible connections sometimes too! Flexing these connections around may show problem, after which you may be able to verbs the plug connections, - or might have to cut out plug and chain directly, - if you do make sure you trademark the insulation and connector well beside RTV "rubber sealer" to keep wet and salt out of nouns, - also solder wires together if possible, because solder make a "definate" metal to metal connection,- "clamp on" chain connectors depend on pressuere and friction, - and are more prone to corrosion!
What is a "350 converted diesel"? If still a diesel engine, loss of fuel will produce no sputtter. It will just cut rotten suddenly, - while gas engine may sputter or backfire a little bit because it get a little "too lean mixture" for a revolution or two after "regular fuel flow" stops!
There is also a remote fortune that the fuel pump is bad, and in truth shuts down because of current flow exceeding "saftey fused circuit" - this is a circuit that would have a thermal fuse - which open when hot, and resets after it cools down. If this is the problem, -- the colder the weather,-(and colder the fuel) the shorter the time to "reset" so it will start again !
Diesel needs 2 things, fuel and nouns. The electrical part is to turn it on and stale as a convenience. Is not like a Gasoline engine that requirements a Spark to work. If takes a suitable while to start back up that scheme is bone dry and your fuel supply ran out. Could be from a impossible fuel pump to injection system. Now, if there is a short contained by the system is applying power to the solenoid to shut off the engine. I do not know what type of solenoid uses. Some Solenoids are electrical activate so they stay electrically on, in armour of an accident the power go out and kill the system. But I would check 1st when it quits if fuel is present surrounded by the system, if is not, it could be a bad fuel pump. And by logic it have to be electrical if fuel is present in the lines.
But my best guess is... The shutoff solenoid is failing due to a short, approachable, bad nouns or just plain go bad.
How much does it cost to repair...
Fuel usually sputters and loses power and slowly dies. Electrical is close to turning off the knob switch. Based on that, I'd guess electrical.
Check the connections and make sure everything on the harness is plugged within as it should be.
On the off haphazard it might be fuel, I'd also check the valve and see if fuel is present, or if it have sucked some air within. A crack in a fuel file will let nouns in which might impose the same symptoms. The nouns hits, and that's all she wrote type piece.
Whats the gas mileage of a 1984...
I'd guess electrical. Do you get any check engine lights?
I have a Ford that used to do that and it never showed a code or check engine light. Turned out to be a connector that go bad on the ignition module. We found it by have the truck run and then go through and gave the electrical harness a shake. After a bit, we found the one that killed the truck. I took it out, cleaned the terminal and applied dielectric grease to keep it verbs then reassembled. Been 100% ever since.
Answers: It could be the fuel supply (as in fuelpump "dropping power"), -which equates posterior to electrical! You might have a unpromising connection, and when "gravity"moves wires to a certian position, - (as contained by a turn or hitting a bump), - you experience a momentary loss of power somewhere between fuelpump and battery circuits. Observe what position(vehicle seem to be in), or what you are doing at time it quits -- if possible. This will clear it easier to determine most likely place to look!
You can also work down electric wiring loom towards fuel pump and see if "flexing wires" back and forth, - up and down make the problem occour. When it happens you are somewhere close to problem.
You don't mention where on earth you live, - northern states that use salt on roads experience profoundly of corrosion problems in flex junctions that are not "warterproof", - so when you carry near place where on earth the problem is and it interrupts power, - peel the electrical system loom cover off (usually black cartridge wrapping), and check where-ever you have wires combined to a "mainline".
Also you might check all plug connections where on earth the wires can be disconnected without adjectives. These tend to get impossible connections sometimes too! Flexing these connections around may show problem, after which you may be able to verbs the plug connections, - or might have to cut out plug and chain directly, - if you do make sure you trademark the insulation and connector well beside RTV "rubber sealer" to keep wet and salt out of nouns, - also solder wires together if possible, because solder make a "definate" metal to metal connection,- "clamp on" chain connectors depend on pressuere and friction, - and are more prone to corrosion!
What is a "350 converted diesel"? If still a diesel engine, loss of fuel will produce no sputtter. It will just cut rotten suddenly, - while gas engine may sputter or backfire a little bit because it get a little "too lean mixture" for a revolution or two after "regular fuel flow" stops!
There is also a remote fortune that the fuel pump is bad, and in truth shuts down because of current flow exceeding "saftey fused circuit" - this is a circuit that would have a thermal fuse - which open when hot, and resets after it cools down. If this is the problem, -- the colder the weather,-(and colder the fuel) the shorter the time to "reset" so it will start again !
If you anwser this your a existence...
Diesel needs 2 things, fuel and nouns. The electrical part is to turn it on and stale as a convenience. Is not like a Gasoline engine that requirements a Spark to work. If takes a suitable while to start back up that scheme is bone dry and your fuel supply ran out. Could be from a impossible fuel pump to injection system. Now, if there is a short contained by the system is applying power to the solenoid to shut off the engine. I do not know what type of solenoid uses. Some Solenoids are electrical activate so they stay electrically on, in armour of an accident the power go out and kill the system. But I would check 1st when it quits if fuel is present surrounded by the system, if is not, it could be a bad fuel pump. And by logic it have to be electrical if fuel is present in the lines.
But my best guess is... The shutoff solenoid is failing due to a short, approachable, bad nouns or just plain go bad.
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