Purchasing a engine?

I have a '97 honda civic Ex, and i am planning on purchasing a used 1.6 cylinder engine and i am trying to find one specifically at least below a thousand bucks, i ahve already tried the dealership and they are way too expensive so does anybody know where on earth i can find one that is not so expensive excluding ebay?

I own a 1996 Mercedes E320, the...



Answers:    Dear Civic-

I would suggest that you check several auto wreckers in your nouns and call them first. I hold been surrounded by your situation already. Let you fingers do the work.

Here are a couple of tips to help you out.

Be sure that you own the engine number handy, the VIN, make, model, and year.

I would also suggest that you inform them if the vehicle have A/C, power steering and whether it was a instruction book or automatic transmission.

On some of the import like domestics here were slight differences between the automatics and the almanac transmissions. Mainly where holes for mounting brackets be drilled or deleted surrounded by the engine block.

Ebay is not going to be the best place to locate an engine. I would not buy an engine sight unseen at adjectives. I don't care how obedient the deal sounds, once you own that boat anchor are you going to be able to afford the shipping to return it?

Once you locate the engine, step and have a look at it and parley to the scrapper before you buy it. Insist on seeing the vehicle that it is coming out of.

If the vehicle was within a front end collision and the vehicle be totaled for insurance reasons, I would skip it and verbs to a vehicle that has be totaled from the rear instead.

Now once you hold the engine you may want to do a little work up to that time installation to your ride.

Strip all of the exterior parts past its sell-by date the engine right down to the block and cylinder head, consequently steam clean that crucial assembly. Replace any freeze plugs that are remotely questionable after the cleaning.

Replace the oil vessel gasket, valve cover gasket, intake compound gasket, exhaust manifold gasket and any attached rubber vacuum hoses. Replace adjectives of the coolant hoses, thermostat, water pump, timing belt and tensioner, drive belts, engine mounts, nouns mounts, A/C hoses, and ALL FLUIDS!

Complete set of new Tune-Up Parts to include Oil and Oil Filter.

Bascially what you are doing is replacing adjectives of the parts that will be a potential problem after your installation.

When you remove the Valve Cover and the Oil Pan take memo as to the internal condition of the engine. Excessive sludge or deposits of sludge should be removed. This is also a sign that the engine may not have be cared for properly, and could present some extramural problems.

This could include excessive oil consumption, which would be an unknown until the engine is reassembled and fired.

Now these are some of the issues that you could be facing near a wrecking yard engine. To include a complete engine do again including, rings, pistons, bearings, and a stopcock job.

If it comes to that, next the crate engine from Honda may have be the better choice.

Now before you a short time ago give up on the crate engine route, permit me explain a few things to you about the crate engines.

First, if Honda sell their engines like Chevrolet, the engine probably comes surrounded by either Long Block or Short Block form. Long Block, (Complete Cylinder Head and Engine Block short Intake and Exhaust Manifolds).

This mechanism that the main guts of your engine is any new or remanufactured by an authorized Honda Service Contractor. If this is the casing, that remanufactured engine is as close to factory tolerances as possible, and may include only the recycle of the cylinder head and engine block. Which medium the pistons, rings, bearings, crankshaft, valve, camshaft, rockers, followers, and all of those parts are brand trial.

These engines also normally come beside a 12 month or 12,000 mile warranty on them. Which your wrecking yard engine comes beside a tail-light gurantee, (When I don't see your tail-lights any more, the guarantee is all you baby).

Personally, if any rebuild is going to be more than the actual saloon is worth, then it might be best to retire the vehicle and muse about getting a spanking new car. Unfortunately I hold been in that too. That is no fun!

In which case consider this prospect for your vehicle. You might consider parting the vehicle out. This is the best route for recovering the most money for your car. In various cases parting your old-fashioned car out you can get better almost 3/4 of the blue book on the vehicle or more.

Anyhow, sorry to hear you are in the preserve you are in. I hope I be able to bestow you a few more ideas. Good Luck!

I own a bmw 316i compact?


There are auto slavage yard in the ashen pages of the phone book--or run to a body shop for some info on where they would win such an item. It is a risky purchase--no warranty--no guarantee it will be any good--after all that work. Short of buying a Jasper rebuild with a 3 year warranty, here isn't much hope of success near a used motor. I know they sound expensive, but saloon ownership is expensive. You just can't drive them forever short spending money on them.

Resolved Questions

Copyright © 2008-2010 All rights reserved. YesImAuto.com