i wanna go with one Fi btl... but i dont wanna salary a whole bunch more upgrading my eletrical units. how douse it really cost to upgrade eletrical... another cross-examine.. What is the best spl sub at 1500-1700 watts not looking to pay over 400
that's a hard one..spl subs usually are exceptionally expensive, i would suggest the jl audio 13w7, the mtx 9500, the solo x by kicker, or a very nice option would be the pioneer TS-W8102SPL 3000w rms that entity will shake your organs for real
Answers: When your running 1500-1700w rms you are going to need an electrical upgrade. There is no mode around it. I'll show you what I mean..
If you wanted to run 1500w rms for example. If you run the 1500w and divide it by 0.8. That represents an 80% efficient amplifier which is usually what a Class D amp is. 1500w/0.8 = 1875w. That means within order to get 1500w to your sub you will inevitability to input 1875w to the amp. 1875w / 14.4V (the running voltage of the car) = 130A. That means you will need 130A to get done 1500w of power to your sub. Most car alternators are going to be around 70A or so. Some large trucks may own a 120A alternator. But that is still not enough power to run your system. The 130A is a moment ago to run your system and doesn't include what your car's electrical system will need. You may need an alternator around 200A to grasp 1500w out of your sub. That also doesn't even include the fact that your car is probably not even running at 14.4V but even smaller quantity then that. That means your system will requirement even more current.
What you will also need to supply the power is a good battery-operated. A deep cycle battery will be just what the doctor ordered because they can be fully discharged much better then a regular car battery-operated. This is good for the quick bursts of bass when the current emergency is too high for your alternator to supply. One other upgrade that will be a must if you upgrade your alternator is a big 3 upgrade. This just consists of replacing 3 wires next to wires of a higher gauge.
Now I'm not trying to be discouraging and unfolding you all this bad communication but I'm just trying to let you know the truth. If you really want to own a lot of power in your vehicle it is going to take a lot of power to supply it. This is where on earth a lot of upgrading is neccessary. Without a proper electrical system there is no point within spending hundreds of dollars on a sub that can take a lot of power. If you can't supply it after it is just a waste of money.
Good Luck!
P.S. - Don't spend your money on a cap.
that's a hard one..spl subs usually are exceptionally expensive, i would suggest the jl audio 13w7, the mtx 9500, the solo x by kicker, or a very nice option would be the pioneer TS-W8102SPL 3000w rms that entity will shake your organs for real
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that's a hard one..spl subs usually are exceptionally expensive, i would suggest the jl audio 13w7, the mtx 9500, the solo x by kicker, or a very nice option would be the pioneer TS-W8102SPL 3000w rms that entity will shake your organs for real
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Answers: When your running 1500-1700w rms you are going to need an electrical upgrade. There is no mode around it. I'll show you what I mean..
If you wanted to run 1500w rms for example. If you run the 1500w and divide it by 0.8. That represents an 80% efficient amplifier which is usually what a Class D amp is. 1500w/0.8 = 1875w. That means within order to get 1500w to your sub you will inevitability to input 1875w to the amp. 1875w / 14.4V (the running voltage of the car) = 130A. That means you will need 130A to get done 1500w of power to your sub. Most car alternators are going to be around 70A or so. Some large trucks may own a 120A alternator. But that is still not enough power to run your system. The 130A is a moment ago to run your system and doesn't include what your car's electrical system will need. You may need an alternator around 200A to grasp 1500w out of your sub. That also doesn't even include the fact that your car is probably not even running at 14.4V but even smaller quantity then that. That means your system will requirement even more current.
What you will also need to supply the power is a good battery-operated. A deep cycle battery will be just what the doctor ordered because they can be fully discharged much better then a regular car battery-operated. This is good for the quick bursts of bass when the current emergency is too high for your alternator to supply. One other upgrade that will be a must if you upgrade your alternator is a big 3 upgrade. This just consists of replacing 3 wires next to wires of a higher gauge.
Now I'm not trying to be discouraging and unfolding you all this bad communication but I'm just trying to let you know the truth. If you really want to own a lot of power in your vehicle it is going to take a lot of power to supply it. This is where on earth a lot of upgrading is neccessary. Without a proper electrical system there is no point within spending hundreds of dollars on a sub that can take a lot of power. If you can't supply it after it is just a waste of money.
Good Luck!
P.S. - Don't spend your money on a cap.
that's a hard one..spl subs usually are exceptionally expensive, i would suggest the jl audio 13w7, the mtx 9500, the solo x by kicker, or a very nice option would be the pioneer TS-W8102SPL 3000w rms that entity will shake your organs for real
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