What materials do i need to formulate a fiberglass speaker box and how do i make?...I've hear you have to truly make the box inside the trunk. Is it also true that fiberglass can crack?
Answers: You could be paid the speaker box out of ridged foam and fiberglass, or you could build a wooden frame and fiberglass over the wood frame. It depends on the type of speaker box you want. You can even make it out of plywood if you longing. It all depends on the look you want. If you want a box, flat sides, consequently I’d go the plywood route (I’m not a big supporter of press board but a lot of ancestors use it) If you’re trying to follow the body lines or want a more organic shape next ridged foam covered in fiberglass would be the approach to go.
“I've hear you have to in reality make the box inside the trunk”
No you don’t. You can fashion the box outside of the trunk and then put it within and if you wish fiberglass it surrounded by place. It depends on if you wish to run the speaker boxes out of the trunk or not. If you build it out of foam and are careful next to it you can test fit your box. If you are going to fiberglass it within place, fiberglass the inside, and any side you won’t be able to seize at once it’s in the trunk. When you question paper fit the box remember it should be a little loose, you hold to account for the fiberglass you’re going to be putting on it.
Is it also true that fiberglass can crack?
Yes, it can, especially if you don’t allow an nouns opening or you skimp within the amount of fiberglass you use.
“paint to match the color of the car”
If the coupé hasn’t been repainted any dutiful paint store can match the color of the saloon, you can get the paint code sour the car.
I would buy my speaker boxes, they are going to be cheaper afterwards you can make them. If you want to fit them surrounded by the trunk, I still would buy my speaker boxes and use ridge foam and fiberglass to fill surrounded by the space between the box and the trunk, then fiberglass the foam to the speaker box, prime, paint, mount. It would bequeath you a nice custom look without spending plentifully of time and money. I hope I made that clear, if not post put money on and edit and I’ll try to trade name it clearer if I can.
For supplies you’re going to need fiberglass mat or cloth, resin and hardener (you can receive a kit beside everything in it at most box stores automotive bit the kit is the model size to practice with. I prefer cloth over mat, smaller quantity of a mess but mat is stronger), a box of disposable gloves, respirator, a piece of foam insulation I use 1/4 ” to 1/2 ”, cheap paint brushes, plastic spreaders (3 pack next to the Bondo surrounded by automotive), Bondo for the low spots, sanding block, a duet of scissors, and sandpaper, and a mixing tray (if you buy a kit it’ll come beside it if not achieve the disposable paint mixing tray and toss them out after you use them) and a tack cloth.
Take your piece of foam insulation, cut your fiberglass cloth with one inch extra on adjectives sides.
Put on a pair of gloves and costume, (to be honest I don’t use a mask but I tend to work outside) MAKE SURE YOU USE GLOVES TRUST ME THE BURNS ARE NOT WORTH IT. Mix your resin and hardener according to the instructions on the side of the resin can or one the hardener tube or can. (Sorry, but you might draw from a different brand then I use and it might inevitability more or less hardener after the stuff I use.)
Center your fiberglass cloth over the foam insulation. Now if you’re working on the flat just pour your resin and hardener mix higher than the fiberglass cloth and used the plastic spreader to force the resin hardener into to cloth. (You can dip your cloth in the resin/hardener mix if you option but I find it just make a bigger mess) Spread and work you resin/hardener mix all over the cloth, over the snake of the foam. You’ll need to work prompt but neat. Work from the center to the turn-up, using the spreader work out any air bubbles. If you’re working on vertical start at the top and work your mode down and out to the edge, using the brush to apply the resin hardener mix and the spreaders to work the mix within and air out. (I put a spot of the resin hardener mix top center to hold the cloth within place). If you’re working over head, afterwards a spot of resin/hardener in the center to hold the cloth and work from the center out, using the brush to apply the resin/hardener and the plastic spreader to work the mix into the cloth.
Let the resin/hardener dry, read the can it’ll notify you how long it’ll take to cure.
Sand, I use a med. grit sandpaper to smooth the lump and bumps, the smoother you laid it the smaller number sanding you’ll necessitate to do. Try not to sand through the first layer of fiberglass. Dust it rotten, use a tack cloth to get adjectives the dust.
Apply a second layer only just like the first.
Repeat until you’ve built up the layer of fiberglass to the thickness you have need of. (I always use at lowest two)
Use Bondo to fill within any low spots, sand prime, paint.
If anything is clear post an edit rear and I’ll try to help.
Good Luck.
this site might back you out a bit and about what the other guy be telling you hes full of s^&t you have need of to use mds plywood sound resembling crap and compress board to mds gives you fitting sound the fiberglass can crack but with the sole purpose if you have a really rugged system like the kickers 12" or15" solo x you dont necessarly enjoy to built the box inside of the car unless you know what your doing i wouldnt recomend it they usually do this when they enjoy sepecific dimentions which is what you need if you want really devout sound level usually the trunks that you see on cars are just for show especially the ones that are made of fiberglass look through out this site it give you ideas on how you would approaching to make your box apposite luck
Answers: You could be paid the speaker box out of ridged foam and fiberglass, or you could build a wooden frame and fiberglass over the wood frame. It depends on the type of speaker box you want. You can even make it out of plywood if you longing. It all depends on the look you want. If you want a box, flat sides, consequently I’d go the plywood route (I’m not a big supporter of press board but a lot of ancestors use it) If you’re trying to follow the body lines or want a more organic shape next ridged foam covered in fiberglass would be the approach to go.
“I've hear you have to in reality make the box inside the trunk”
No you don’t. You can fashion the box outside of the trunk and then put it within and if you wish fiberglass it surrounded by place. It depends on if you wish to run the speaker boxes out of the trunk or not. If you build it out of foam and are careful next to it you can test fit your box. If you are going to fiberglass it within place, fiberglass the inside, and any side you won’t be able to seize at once it’s in the trunk. When you question paper fit the box remember it should be a little loose, you hold to account for the fiberglass you’re going to be putting on it.
Is it also true that fiberglass can crack?
Yes, it can, especially if you don’t allow an nouns opening or you skimp within the amount of fiberglass you use.
“paint to match the color of the car”
If the coupé hasn’t been repainted any dutiful paint store can match the color of the saloon, you can get the paint code sour the car.
I would buy my speaker boxes, they are going to be cheaper afterwards you can make them. If you want to fit them surrounded by the trunk, I still would buy my speaker boxes and use ridge foam and fiberglass to fill surrounded by the space between the box and the trunk, then fiberglass the foam to the speaker box, prime, paint, mount. It would bequeath you a nice custom look without spending plentifully of time and money. I hope I made that clear, if not post put money on and edit and I’ll try to trade name it clearer if I can.
For supplies you’re going to need fiberglass mat or cloth, resin and hardener (you can receive a kit beside everything in it at most box stores automotive bit the kit is the model size to practice with. I prefer cloth over mat, smaller quantity of a mess but mat is stronger), a box of disposable gloves, respirator, a piece of foam insulation I use 1/4 ” to 1/2 ”, cheap paint brushes, plastic spreaders (3 pack next to the Bondo surrounded by automotive), Bondo for the low spots, sanding block, a duet of scissors, and sandpaper, and a mixing tray (if you buy a kit it’ll come beside it if not achieve the disposable paint mixing tray and toss them out after you use them) and a tack cloth.
Take your piece of foam insulation, cut your fiberglass cloth with one inch extra on adjectives sides.
Put on a pair of gloves and costume, (to be honest I don’t use a mask but I tend to work outside) MAKE SURE YOU USE GLOVES TRUST ME THE BURNS ARE NOT WORTH IT. Mix your resin and hardener according to the instructions on the side of the resin can or one the hardener tube or can. (Sorry, but you might draw from a different brand then I use and it might inevitability more or less hardener after the stuff I use.)
Center your fiberglass cloth over the foam insulation. Now if you’re working on the flat just pour your resin and hardener mix higher than the fiberglass cloth and used the plastic spreader to force the resin hardener into to cloth. (You can dip your cloth in the resin/hardener mix if you option but I find it just make a bigger mess) Spread and work you resin/hardener mix all over the cloth, over the snake of the foam. You’ll need to work prompt but neat. Work from the center to the turn-up, using the spreader work out any air bubbles. If you’re working on vertical start at the top and work your mode down and out to the edge, using the brush to apply the resin hardener mix and the spreaders to work the mix within and air out. (I put a spot of the resin hardener mix top center to hold the cloth within place). If you’re working over head, afterwards a spot of resin/hardener in the center to hold the cloth and work from the center out, using the brush to apply the resin/hardener and the plastic spreader to work the mix into the cloth.
Let the resin/hardener dry, read the can it’ll notify you how long it’ll take to cure.
Sand, I use a med. grit sandpaper to smooth the lump and bumps, the smoother you laid it the smaller number sanding you’ll necessitate to do. Try not to sand through the first layer of fiberglass. Dust it rotten, use a tack cloth to get adjectives the dust.
Apply a second layer only just like the first.
Repeat until you’ve built up the layer of fiberglass to the thickness you have need of. (I always use at lowest two)
Use Bondo to fill within any low spots, sand prime, paint.
If anything is clear post an edit rear and I’ll try to help.
Good Luck.
I installed a Kenwood cd player into...
this site might back you out a bit and about what the other guy be telling you hes full of s^&t you have need of to use mds plywood sound resembling crap and compress board to mds gives you fitting sound the fiberglass can crack but with the sole purpose if you have a really rugged system like the kickers 12" or15" solo x you dont necessarly enjoy to built the box inside of the car unless you know what your doing i wouldnt recomend it they usually do this when they enjoy sepecific dimentions which is what you need if you want really devout sound level usually the trunks that you see on cars are just for show especially the ones that are made of fiberglass look through out this site it give you ideas on how you would approaching to make your box apposite luck
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