Ok i have 2 Jl audio 12 w6's and i own a kicker 1500.1 mono block amp. the subs are 400 rms. How should i set my amp for best sound a unmatched bass ?
Answers: Okay, here's what I've read from kicker.com and JL audio's site
your amp is 1550 watts (at 2 ohms), and your subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils...you can either telecommunication the subs to do 1 ohm, or 4 ohm, according to kicker, the amp is NOT 1 ohm stable (meaning if you wire for 1 ohm...say-so bye bye to the amp, you may also create a fire in your sports car!)...so, your only other odds to run those two subs is at 4 ohms, to do that, you will have partly the power from your amp (you will get 775RMS watts from the amp), and the thermal handling of the JL subs is 800watts contained by total...
I would say this is an okay set up, but you would be better rotten getting a slightly bigger amp to run those two subs, or get a smaller amp, and put up for sale one of the subs. these subs slam quite apt, I have a friend near one of these W3's fiberglassed into the trunk of his celica, and you need audible range protecting or else you will literally progress deaf inside his car!, so if you want these things to slam the crap out of your eyeballs, and produce you need audible range protection, you will want to get a slightly bigger amp...and you're going to requirement a capacitor, don't cheap out here either, catch a 1farad cap, and take home sure it's good (no polk, no jensen, no SPL, no soundstream, no power acoustik, xstatic, bequest, kole, lanzar, pyramid, those are all below par). grasp either a monster, or rockford fosgate.
One more point for everyones benefit, a good rule(s) of thumb when purchasing subs/amps:
1. an amp is other around $1/RMS watt to purchase from a store
2. an amp always costs more than the sub (properly powered, the amp will overpower the sub, this is suitable, it's dangerous to underpower the sub, i.e. it may fry the voice coils).
3. a 350RMS watt sub (4ohms single voice coil) right very soon is about $250 unknown (infinity perfect 12"), a 467watt amp (at 4 ohms to game the sub) to power that sub is $400 new...so the actual investment is in the amplifier..better bolt that babe-in-arms to the chassis of your car, consent to 'em steal the subs, they'll have a thorny time selling them at the local pawn shop, there's too copious subs already at the local pawn shop...just any amps...
To add to the above....
How you nouns an amp determines the amount of power out.
There is a trade off though, the lower the impedance (ohms) the more power is pushed as okay as higher distortion and more grill is generated. The excessive bake will shorten the life of the amp.
For best overall performing, it's far better to get a sophisticated powered amp and load it next to 4 ohms than a lower powered amp and force it to push more power with a lower impedance (2 or smaller number ohms) load.
Always look for CEA-2006 compliant amps.
Be sure the gain is set right.
The purpose of the gain is to game the signal volts RMS coming from the source (CD player, etc.) to the input of the amp.
Here is a guide that will help you set the gain correctly http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php...
You'll want a multi-meter (AC voltmeter), Microsoft Excel and a way to burn an audio compact disc from an MP3.
If you don't have Excel, e-mail me and I'll dispatch you a condensed version sparky3489(a)YAH00.com
See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
How do the audiobahn eternals nouns?
Answers: Okay, here's what I've read from kicker.com and JL audio's site
your amp is 1550 watts (at 2 ohms), and your subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils...you can either telecommunication the subs to do 1 ohm, or 4 ohm, according to kicker, the amp is NOT 1 ohm stable (meaning if you wire for 1 ohm...say-so bye bye to the amp, you may also create a fire in your sports car!)...so, your only other odds to run those two subs is at 4 ohms, to do that, you will have partly the power from your amp (you will get 775RMS watts from the amp), and the thermal handling of the JL subs is 800watts contained by total...
I would say this is an okay set up, but you would be better rotten getting a slightly bigger amp to run those two subs, or get a smaller amp, and put up for sale one of the subs. these subs slam quite apt, I have a friend near one of these W3's fiberglassed into the trunk of his celica, and you need audible range protecting or else you will literally progress deaf inside his car!, so if you want these things to slam the crap out of your eyeballs, and produce you need audible range protection, you will want to get a slightly bigger amp...and you're going to requirement a capacitor, don't cheap out here either, catch a 1farad cap, and take home sure it's good (no polk, no jensen, no SPL, no soundstream, no power acoustik, xstatic, bequest, kole, lanzar, pyramid, those are all below par). grasp either a monster, or rockford fosgate.
One more point for everyones benefit, a good rule(s) of thumb when purchasing subs/amps:
1. an amp is other around $1/RMS watt to purchase from a store
2. an amp always costs more than the sub (properly powered, the amp will overpower the sub, this is suitable, it's dangerous to underpower the sub, i.e. it may fry the voice coils).
3. a 350RMS watt sub (4ohms single voice coil) right very soon is about $250 unknown (infinity perfect 12"), a 467watt amp (at 4 ohms to game the sub) to power that sub is $400 new...so the actual investment is in the amplifier..better bolt that babe-in-arms to the chassis of your car, consent to 'em steal the subs, they'll have a thorny time selling them at the local pawn shop, there's too copious subs already at the local pawn shop...just any amps...
To add to the above....
How you nouns an amp determines the amount of power out.
There is a trade off though, the lower the impedance (ohms) the more power is pushed as okay as higher distortion and more grill is generated. The excessive bake will shorten the life of the amp.
For best overall performing, it's far better to get a sophisticated powered amp and load it next to 4 ohms than a lower powered amp and force it to push more power with a lower impedance (2 or smaller number ohms) load.
Always look for CEA-2006 compliant amps.
Be sure the gain is set right.
The purpose of the gain is to game the signal volts RMS coming from the source (CD player, etc.) to the input of the amp.
Here is a guide that will help you set the gain correctly http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php...
You'll want a multi-meter (AC voltmeter), Microsoft Excel and a way to burn an audio compact disc from an MP3.
If you don't have Excel, e-mail me and I'll dispatch you a condensed version sparky3489(a)YAH00.com
See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
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