I find it funny that some will assume if a speaker is under powered the amp is automatically going to clip. This is where the myth and certainty part ways.
It's the end user that have control of the gain and whether or not they use it correctly determines the health of the speaker in press.
Still others will say when an amp clips, a DC signal is sent to the speaker. The problem is it's not pure DC or anywhere close to it. It's pulsed DC and the actual DC part of the waveform is shorter surrounded by time than the 'good' part of the sinal in more milder cases. In the severe cases, the time between both become more even.
Example - http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/s...
___________________
I can drive a speaker with a 100% clipped square wave signal adjectives day long with no problems as long as the thermal and powered limits of the speaker are not exceeded.
I can feed a speaker 100% distortion adjectives day long with no prejudice as long as the thermal and mechanical limits of the speaker are not exceeded.
I can exceed the thermal and/or power-driven limits of a speaker and watch it founder in short order.
These are electrical and physical truths and anything else is a myth.
I really appreciate this kind of information...
If nothing is heating up after your okay.
Also like DJ said, I think we adjectives greatly appreciate these kind of FAQ's because they clear up any grey areas.
I really appreciate this kind of information...
You are so right. I would tag on to what you have said, by saying that speakers SHOULD be lower than powered. The power rating of a speaker should be about twice what the power rating of the amplifier is, because of something you didn't mention, which is peak power (since most relations only think roughly the average power output when they are selecting speaker/amp combinations).
When an amp has to treaty with large signal change (take heavy base guitar or drum), the speaker receive a "thump" of power, possibly the amp is clipping (driving the amp ouput into saturation). These base clips are of the longest duration because of the low frequency, and will be more likely to motive damage to either the voicecoil itself or physically to the speaker as the coil tries to move the cone beyond it's restrictions (when the cone breaks near the coil you get that annoying buzz). This high point power pulse is a good reason why you involve to under power your speakers.
In the end, as you so in good health state, clipping is really only distortion, and distortion can damage the speaker if the user have not properly chosen the proper speaker/amp combo. If you like it loud, buy a more powerful amp so that you aren't overdriving the amp into distortion when you up the volume, and buy much higher rate speakers so they can physically and electrically handle the power you want.
You are so right. I would tag on to what you have said, by saying that speakers SHOULD be lower than powered. The power rating of a speaker should be about twice what the power rating of the amplifier is, because of something you didn't mention, which is peak power (since most relations only think roughly the average power output when they are selecting speaker/amp combinations).
When an amp has to treaty with large signal change (take heavy base guitar or drum), the speaker receive a "thump" of power, possibly the amp is clipping (driving the amp ouput into saturation). These base clips are of the longest duration because of the low frequency, and will be more likely to motive damage to either the voicecoil itself or physically to the speaker as the coil tries to move the cone beyond it's restrictions (when the cone breaks near the coil you get that annoying buzz). This high point power pulse is a good reason why you involve to under power your speakers.
In the end, as you so in good health state, clipping is really only distortion, and distortion can damage the speaker if the user have not properly chosen the proper speaker/amp combo. If you like it loud, buy a more powerful amp so that you aren't overdriving the amp into distortion when you up the volume, and buy much higher rate speakers so they can physically and electrically handle the power you want.
Answers: Only contained by a perfect world...
Not that I disagree, but in a complicated industry, why split hair and break it down into quantum physics?
The truth is that 85% of the people in the open market for speakers are going to go to wal-mart, the flea market or ebay on a budget of $300 or smaller quantity for an amplifier, subs, an enclosure, and wiring. So what happen when they do their research and plan everything out to perfection? The foam surround on the subs breaks down after 2 years and they are back to square one.. OR they take the counsel of Jerry L. and underpower the speaker by 1/2, then turn up the gain to get a clad amount of power and send the speaker a square wave and blow it or the amplifier. The best meeting for the common bass head is RMS of the amplifier = RMS of the sub. For more experienced audiophiles, an amplifier rate at up to 150% more than the speakers would be desired. With proper gain settings, a stronger amplifier will run much cooler and cleaner at the RMS output of the sub.
You can draw it out on paper, check and recheck the math, but it all boils down to how much the user know or wants to know. If all they know is "I want to be hear 10 blocks away", they really don't care about clipping, distortion, thermal or powered limits.
Spread the word, Sparky... by all system preach on. I just wanted to supply a different perspective.
If nothing is heating up after your okay.
Also like DJ said, I think we adjectives greatly appreciate these kind of FAQ's because they clear up any grey areas.
I really appreciate this kind of information...
It's the end user that have control of the gain and whether or not they use it correctly determines the health of the speaker in press.
Still others will say when an amp clips, a DC signal is sent to the speaker. The problem is it's not pure DC or anywhere close to it. It's pulsed DC and the actual DC part of the waveform is shorter surrounded by time than the 'good' part of the sinal in more milder cases. In the severe cases, the time between both become more even.
Example - http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/s...
___________________
I can drive a speaker with a 100% clipped square wave signal adjectives day long with no problems as long as the thermal and powered limits of the speaker are not exceeded.
I can feed a speaker 100% distortion adjectives day long with no prejudice as long as the thermal and mechanical limits of the speaker are not exceeded.
I can exceed the thermal and/or power-driven limits of a speaker and watch it founder in short order.
These are electrical and physical truths and anything else is a myth.
Dual - 12" 1100-Watt 4-Ohm Enclosed Dual...
I really appreciate this kind of information...
XM radio Roady XT through auxiliary plug?
If nothing is heating up after your okay.
Also like DJ said, I think we adjectives greatly appreciate these kind of FAQ's because they clear up any grey areas.
I really appreciate this kind of information...
Electronics question, necessitate aid?
You are so right. I would tag on to what you have said, by saying that speakers SHOULD be lower than powered. The power rating of a speaker should be about twice what the power rating of the amplifier is, because of something you didn't mention, which is peak power (since most relations only think roughly the average power output when they are selecting speaker/amp combinations).
When an amp has to treaty with large signal change (take heavy base guitar or drum), the speaker receive a "thump" of power, possibly the amp is clipping (driving the amp ouput into saturation). These base clips are of the longest duration because of the low frequency, and will be more likely to motive damage to either the voicecoil itself or physically to the speaker as the coil tries to move the cone beyond it's restrictions (when the cone breaks near the coil you get that annoying buzz). This high point power pulse is a good reason why you involve to under power your speakers.
In the end, as you so in good health state, clipping is really only distortion, and distortion can damage the speaker if the user have not properly chosen the proper speaker/amp combo. If you like it loud, buy a more powerful amp so that you aren't overdriving the amp into distortion when you up the volume, and buy much higher rate speakers so they can physically and electrically handle the power you want.
Where can i buy stereo connections for...
I really needed thatYou are so right. I would tag on to what you have said, by saying that speakers SHOULD be lower than powered. The power rating of a speaker should be about twice what the power rating of the amplifier is, because of something you didn't mention, which is peak power (since most relations only think roughly the average power output when they are selecting speaker/amp combinations).
When an amp has to treaty with large signal change (take heavy base guitar or drum), the speaker receive a "thump" of power, possibly the amp is clipping (driving the amp ouput into saturation). These base clips are of the longest duration because of the low frequency, and will be more likely to motive damage to either the voicecoil itself or physically to the speaker as the coil tries to move the cone beyond it's restrictions (when the cone breaks near the coil you get that annoying buzz). This high point power pulse is a good reason why you involve to under power your speakers.
In the end, as you so in good health state, clipping is really only distortion, and distortion can damage the speaker if the user have not properly chosen the proper speaker/amp combo. If you like it loud, buy a more powerful amp so that you aren't overdriving the amp into distortion when you up the volume, and buy much higher rate speakers so they can physically and electrically handle the power you want.
Answers: Only contained by a perfect world...
Not that I disagree, but in a complicated industry, why split hair and break it down into quantum physics?
The truth is that 85% of the people in the open market for speakers are going to go to wal-mart, the flea market or ebay on a budget of $300 or smaller quantity for an amplifier, subs, an enclosure, and wiring. So what happen when they do their research and plan everything out to perfection? The foam surround on the subs breaks down after 2 years and they are back to square one.. OR they take the counsel of Jerry L. and underpower the speaker by 1/2, then turn up the gain to get a clad amount of power and send the speaker a square wave and blow it or the amplifier. The best meeting for the common bass head is RMS of the amplifier = RMS of the sub. For more experienced audiophiles, an amplifier rate at up to 150% more than the speakers would be desired. With proper gain settings, a stronger amplifier will run much cooler and cleaner at the RMS output of the sub.
You can draw it out on paper, check and recheck the math, but it all boils down to how much the user know or wants to know. If all they know is "I want to be hear 10 blocks away", they really don't care about clipping, distortion, thermal or powered limits.
Spread the word, Sparky... by all system preach on. I just wanted to supply a different perspective.
If nothing is heating up after your okay.
Also like DJ said, I think we adjectives greatly appreciate these kind of FAQ's because they clear up any grey areas.
I really appreciate this kind of information...
I enjoy a Philips motor radio next...
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