for my amp i have a
Rockford Fosgate - Punch 500W Class AB Bridgeable 2-Channel Amplifier
1500W RMS peak output (a) 4 ohms, bridged
500W RMS (continuous), bridged
500W RMS (a) 2 ohms
250W RMS (a) 4 ohms
Adjustable 40-400Hz crossover
I enjoy 2 alpine type-e's i am going to put in my truck...they both can handle 250 watts RMS and are both 4 ohms...i interpreted the amp to say aloud 250 watts RMS output per sub but it really means...at 4 ohms it will put out 125 RMS watts per sub(125x2)...when i have them installed will the subs be wired surrounded by parallel so that the total ohms will drop down to 2 so that it can put out the 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms which really means 250 watts per sub... is that going to work or am i going to need to upgrade the amp?
Also...next to that amp and those subs is it necessary that i have a capacitor put surrounded by along with everything else? The subs are the only article that is going to be amplified...
Capacitor isn't required, but can improve performance when playing at full output.
If the amp produces 500W into 4 ohms bridged later it'll make 250 per channel, not 125, into 4 ohms surrounded by 2 channel. Read the specs carefully to spawn sure you have them correct. 500W from one output or 1/2 of that from each of 2 outputs. Do the specs read aloud 250W per channel?
I'd worry more give or take a few upgrading the speakers. You'll generally want speakers rated superior than the applied power.
Note that neither the amp nor speakers will ever operate continuously at that power level with full audio.
Answers: Do not wire the subs surrounded by parallel to the bridged amplifier output. That amp most likely cannot handle a 2ohm bridged nouns. -Some older RF amps can, but not the newer ones.
Connect one sub to each pipe. It will give them about 125watts RMS respectively. If you were to give them 250watts RMS respectively, with a larger amp, you would only gain roughly 3dB's. 3dB's is barely noticable to most (99%) people.
Go for it. The amp will run at half-power, resulting within cooler (longer lasting) performance. The subs will recieve 1/2 of their rated power resulting contained by longer lasting performance.
Put them within a ported box for the most output. Have it built (or build yourself) according to Alpine ported internal volume they recommend for your specific subs.
Also, don't use a capacitor. They DO NOT help an alternator that already can't supply the voltage. In this case they hurt more by stressing the alternator more, as it's only just another thing it's gotta keep charged.
With 250watts RMS, you won't requirement an alternator upgrade, but you should do the Big3 upgrade;
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/foru...
Capacitor isn't required, but can improve performance when playing at full output.
If the amp produces 500W into 4 ohms bridged later it'll make 250 per channel, not 125, into 4 ohms surrounded by 2 channel. Read the specs carefully to spawn sure you have them correct. 500W from one output or 1/2 of that from each of 2 outputs. Do the specs read aloud 250W per channel?
I'd worry more give or take a few upgrading the speakers. You'll generally want speakers rated superior than the applied power.
Note that neither the amp nor speakers will ever operate continuously at that power level with full audio.
Rockford Fosgate - Punch 500W Class AB Bridgeable 2-Channel Amplifier
1500W RMS peak output (a) 4 ohms, bridged
500W RMS (continuous), bridged
500W RMS (a) 2 ohms
250W RMS (a) 4 ohms
Adjustable 40-400Hz crossover
I enjoy 2 alpine type-e's i am going to put in my truck...they both can handle 250 watts RMS and are both 4 ohms...i interpreted the amp to say aloud 250 watts RMS output per sub but it really means...at 4 ohms it will put out 125 RMS watts per sub(125x2)...when i have them installed will the subs be wired surrounded by parallel so that the total ohms will drop down to 2 so that it can put out the 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms which really means 250 watts per sub... is that going to work or am i going to need to upgrade the amp?
Also...next to that amp and those subs is it necessary that i have a capacitor put surrounded by along with everything else? The subs are the only article that is going to be amplified...
How do i transmutation the door speakers...
Jensen In-Dash CD/DVD/MP3 Receiver w/ 7" LCD...
Capacitor isn't required, but can improve performance when playing at full output.
If the amp produces 500W into 4 ohms bridged later it'll make 250 per channel, not 125, into 4 ohms surrounded by 2 channel. Read the specs carefully to spawn sure you have them correct. 500W from one output or 1/2 of that from each of 2 outputs. Do the specs read aloud 250W per channel?
I'd worry more give or take a few upgrading the speakers. You'll generally want speakers rated superior than the applied power.
Note that neither the amp nor speakers will ever operate continuously at that power level with full audio.
Volfenhags yay or nay? i want a...
Answers: Do not wire the subs surrounded by parallel to the bridged amplifier output. That amp most likely cannot handle a 2ohm bridged nouns. -Some older RF amps can, but not the newer ones.
Connect one sub to each pipe. It will give them about 125watts RMS respectively. If you were to give them 250watts RMS respectively, with a larger amp, you would only gain roughly 3dB's. 3dB's is barely noticable to most (99%) people.
Go for it. The amp will run at half-power, resulting within cooler (longer lasting) performance. The subs will recieve 1/2 of their rated power resulting contained by longer lasting performance.
Put them within a ported box for the most output. Have it built (or build yourself) according to Alpine ported internal volume they recommend for your specific subs.
Also, don't use a capacitor. They DO NOT help an alternator that already can't supply the voltage. In this case they hurt more by stressing the alternator more, as it's only just another thing it's gotta keep charged.
With 250watts RMS, you won't requirement an alternator upgrade, but you should do the Big3 upgrade;
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/foru...
Capacitor isn't required, but can improve performance when playing at full output.
If the amp produces 500W into 4 ohms bridged later it'll make 250 per channel, not 125, into 4 ohms surrounded by 2 channel. Read the specs carefully to spawn sure you have them correct. 500W from one output or 1/2 of that from each of 2 outputs. Do the specs read aloud 250W per channel?
I'd worry more give or take a few upgrading the speakers. You'll generally want speakers rated superior than the applied power.
Note that neither the amp nor speakers will ever operate continuously at that power level with full audio.