Ford Explorer (1998, V6 4.0 SOHC 4x4 XLT).
Oil changed 5 days ago, new tires and full joystick alignment completed 4 days ago.
Drove nearly 600 KM no problem over 2 days - car drove similar to a dream. Drove today approx. 150 KM and parked in public saloon park, car run fine. Went back to sports car after 3 hours - car started but stalled in half a shake. Repeated a few times, stalled each time. Eventually get it started by depressing gas pedal slightly. Car refuses to languish at all. If I help yourself to my foot of the gas it stalls. Otherwise car seem to run fine. Drove home fine (with care). Noticed that a bulb (centre above gear selector and does the odometer lower figures) in the scuttle had go out at the same time... Any thinking what it might be?
My research suggests it might be the Idle Air Control Valve. If you agree with this assessment is at hand any way to trial for this and is this repair work that can be done without a garage?
If you come up with its something else - let me know !
Thanks !
Another easy mode to test the IAC is the ol' fashioned tack hammer trick...while it's barely idle, take a small tack hammer and tap on the IAC...99 out of 100 will correct the fallow (temporarily)...of course, you're not trying to smash or break it, oil lamp taps will suffice. IAC valve on Ford products are on the top 5 list of most adjectives vehicle issues.
Replacing it is as simple as unplugging the electrical connector, removing 2 bolts (8mm or 10mm, can't remember), and replacing it. O-ring seal or gasket, produce sure the old one is near the old module...most new ones come beside a new gasket or o-ring.
Defective emissions/performance control components are picked up by the computer and stored as a specific trouble code. This code can be retrieved by either an electronic code reader, or by the behind the times 'count the flashes and pauses' method. This requires following a simple process (usually a jumper lead is needed) to use the cars' built-in diagnostic test point. The check engine wishy-washy will flash a combination of flashes and pauses which correspond to numerical trouble codes nominated in your vehicle's repair guide. Since so many of your vehicle's feedback sensors are closely integrated, using the on-board diagnostics is the quickest track to eliminate excessive and costly guesswork. If it ain't broke, don't fix it is the rule, since you can progress broke just shifting out suspect parts.
Good Luck!
Answers: It is indeed the iac stopcock. Just replace it. The symptoms are exactly what a bad one does, and have even happened to my wife's Escape, over the many customer vehicle I have have to replace it on. It takes roughly ten minutes with paw tools. I would replace the gasket as well, no point contained by another trip to the store if it tears on removal. I think the 98 if truth be told is an o-ring type seal, but replace it anyway.
The theory test for a stuck iac valve is to touch the gas pedal and see if it starts and idle normally, which you enjoy confirmed. Being an output from the pcm, it will store no codes in the pcm unless the solenoid is unambiguous or shorted. Sticking will set no codes.
Oil changed 5 days ago, new tires and full joystick alignment completed 4 days ago.
Drove nearly 600 KM no problem over 2 days - car drove similar to a dream. Drove today approx. 150 KM and parked in public saloon park, car run fine. Went back to sports car after 3 hours - car started but stalled in half a shake. Repeated a few times, stalled each time. Eventually get it started by depressing gas pedal slightly. Car refuses to languish at all. If I help yourself to my foot of the gas it stalls. Otherwise car seem to run fine. Drove home fine (with care). Noticed that a bulb (centre above gear selector and does the odometer lower figures) in the scuttle had go out at the same time... Any thinking what it might be?
My research suggests it might be the Idle Air Control Valve. If you agree with this assessment is at hand any way to trial for this and is this repair work that can be done without a garage?
If you come up with its something else - let me know !
Thanks !
Could steering mounted controls on an 08...
Another easy mode to test the IAC is the ol' fashioned tack hammer trick...while it's barely idle, take a small tack hammer and tap on the IAC...99 out of 100 will correct the fallow (temporarily)...of course, you're not trying to smash or break it, oil lamp taps will suffice. IAC valve on Ford products are on the top 5 list of most adjectives vehicle issues.
Replacing it is as simple as unplugging the electrical connector, removing 2 bolts (8mm or 10mm, can't remember), and replacing it. O-ring seal or gasket, produce sure the old one is near the old module...most new ones come beside a new gasket or o-ring.
Defective emissions/performance control components are picked up by the computer and stored as a specific trouble code. This code can be retrieved by either an electronic code reader, or by the behind the times 'count the flashes and pauses' method. This requires following a simple process (usually a jumper lead is needed) to use the cars' built-in diagnostic test point. The check engine wishy-washy will flash a combination of flashes and pauses which correspond to numerical trouble codes nominated in your vehicle's repair guide. Since so many of your vehicle's feedback sensors are closely integrated, using the on-board diagnostics is the quickest track to eliminate excessive and costly guesswork. If it ain't broke, don't fix it is the rule, since you can progress broke just shifting out suspect parts.
Good Luck!
Why does the stock radio within my...
Answers: It is indeed the iac stopcock. Just replace it. The symptoms are exactly what a bad one does, and have even happened to my wife's Escape, over the many customer vehicle I have have to replace it on. It takes roughly ten minutes with paw tools. I would replace the gasket as well, no point contained by another trip to the store if it tears on removal. I think the 98 if truth be told is an o-ring type seal, but replace it anyway.
The theory test for a stuck iac valve is to touch the gas pedal and see if it starts and idle normally, which you enjoy confirmed. Being an output from the pcm, it will store no codes in the pcm unless the solenoid is unambiguous or shorted. Sticking will set no codes.
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