I have a 94 park ave. The check engine light comes on intermitently. If you turn the knob off and restart the car you won't receive a light. If the light is going to come on it will come on when you start the vehicle. It won't come on once your driving it if it wasn't on already.
Since it's obd1 no one can get a reading on it unless the hurricane lantern happens to be on at the time they check it, which of course it won't do when you want it to.
One mechanic said he induced it to jump to an error while he had his diagnostic tool on it and said it was the cam position sensor but he also said it needed a nouns according to his readings. We checked the tranny and it's fine. I don't know how he induced it so I don't trust his results.
When the light comes on the engine starts to shutter and accomplishment like a bad MAP sensor. The MAP be replaced about a year ago. The car have about 108k on it and is the 3.8 fi engine. It runs near without a flaw as long as the light isn't on. Do you have any accepted wisdom?
Than
The other mechanic is thinking the shutter you are feeling is cause by torque converter shutter, and it may be, "if" this condition shows up only when the vehicle is in a unyielding pull, but so would a bad spark plug breaking down.
I sent you some other things to check by email, so I don`t know that will resolve your issue. I would rule out an electrical/mechanical cause such as the igniton system breaking down, or a vacuum leak. It could be the EGR stopcock sticking. If it sticks, it will indeed cause this exact condition.
If you could go to a shop that have a computer with what is called snap shot diagnostics, you will find the problem. Snap Shot Diagnostics, is a program that will narrative the parameters of every sensor on the vehicle up to about 5 minutes prior to the breakdown, and make a picture (snap shot) when it does see a fault. Not adjectives shops would have this kind of scan tool, or computer software to do this near, so you might want to call around to find one that does. These kind of scan tools be expensive, but we did have one, and it worked great as long as you knew what the ordinary readings were within order to compare them to what took place when the fault took place.
I enjoy seen a temperature sensor that be bad do this too. If the computer doesn't know, or thinks the engine is hot, it will bump up the idle speed, and igniton timing to help cool the engine put a bet on down. So you can see how this sensor could cause this. The OBD-1 computer system doesn't know if a temp sensor is good or fruitless, but it does make adjustments to thaw out the engine if its cold, and cool the engine if its hot, so given the fact it may not know what the actual temp is, thus it does some funny things.
Usually if the computer itself is going bad; you will start getting adjectives kinds of different codes at random, and procure different codes after you remove the battery cable to reset it. I have even see the shielded cable that goes from a sensor to the ECM (computer) get antifreeze up inside of the harness, and do intermitent codes that come & go. These are the worst kind of problems to resolve, and you may not until it decide to go totally out.
A bad throttle position sensor can basis this just as well. They may not set a code, because the computer doesn't know if you are in actuality pushing on the gas pedal or not, so it may see a false reading that you have mashed the pedal to the floor, when within fact you didn't, so it injects a large amount of fuel to shift with this, and (you guessed it) it stumbles for a few seconds. This sensor works resembling a volume control on a radio, so when they get bad, they inject adjectives kinds of wild reading to the computer, and the computer doesn't know the difference, thus the engine stumbles, sputters, and shutters until it finally sees a constant reading. This is how a radio does when the volume control doesn't respond to the movement of the knob, and the volume is all over the place until you find a place it will work at. As I said, the computer have no way of knowing if you are standing on the gas or not, so it may or may not set a code, or it sets one, and clears it as soon as the sensor begins to work right. There is an nouns of the sensor that sees all the work, and this is where on earth you have the gas pedal most of the time. This area will wear out (just close to the radio volume), and there ya go.
Glad to facilitate out, Good Luck!
Oxygen sensor is the usual culprit.
Answers: This one has to go rear legs to the dealer. they have the tester that will work on your saloon. cost for that about $75.00
Oxygen sensor is the usual culprit.
Since it's obd1 no one can get a reading on it unless the hurricane lantern happens to be on at the time they check it, which of course it won't do when you want it to.
One mechanic said he induced it to jump to an error while he had his diagnostic tool on it and said it was the cam position sensor but he also said it needed a nouns according to his readings. We checked the tranny and it's fine. I don't know how he induced it so I don't trust his results.
When the light comes on the engine starts to shutter and accomplishment like a bad MAP sensor. The MAP be replaced about a year ago. The car have about 108k on it and is the 3.8 fi engine. It runs near without a flaw as long as the light isn't on. Do you have any accepted wisdom?
Than
"03 Hyundai Sante Fe, have front brakes...
I own a shop, and think this; You may own to go through a trial & error before you ever locate the actual basis. If your vehicle is equipped with a mass air flow sensor, do this; With the engine running and up to heat, use a regular size screwdriver, hold it by the blade end, and use the handle to slap on the sensor. If its bad, the engine will quit, or stumble as soon as you hit it.The other mechanic is thinking the shutter you are feeling is cause by torque converter shutter, and it may be, "if" this condition shows up only when the vehicle is in a unyielding pull, but so would a bad spark plug breaking down.
I sent you some other things to check by email, so I don`t know that will resolve your issue. I would rule out an electrical/mechanical cause such as the igniton system breaking down, or a vacuum leak. It could be the EGR stopcock sticking. If it sticks, it will indeed cause this exact condition.
If you could go to a shop that have a computer with what is called snap shot diagnostics, you will find the problem. Snap Shot Diagnostics, is a program that will narrative the parameters of every sensor on the vehicle up to about 5 minutes prior to the breakdown, and make a picture (snap shot) when it does see a fault. Not adjectives shops would have this kind of scan tool, or computer software to do this near, so you might want to call around to find one that does. These kind of scan tools be expensive, but we did have one, and it worked great as long as you knew what the ordinary readings were within order to compare them to what took place when the fault took place.
I enjoy seen a temperature sensor that be bad do this too. If the computer doesn't know, or thinks the engine is hot, it will bump up the idle speed, and igniton timing to help cool the engine put a bet on down. So you can see how this sensor could cause this. The OBD-1 computer system doesn't know if a temp sensor is good or fruitless, but it does make adjustments to thaw out the engine if its cold, and cool the engine if its hot, so given the fact it may not know what the actual temp is, thus it does some funny things.
Usually if the computer itself is going bad; you will start getting adjectives kinds of different codes at random, and procure different codes after you remove the battery cable to reset it. I have even see the shielded cable that goes from a sensor to the ECM (computer) get antifreeze up inside of the harness, and do intermitent codes that come & go. These are the worst kind of problems to resolve, and you may not until it decide to go totally out.
A bad throttle position sensor can basis this just as well. They may not set a code, because the computer doesn't know if you are in actuality pushing on the gas pedal or not, so it may see a false reading that you have mashed the pedal to the floor, when within fact you didn't, so it injects a large amount of fuel to shift with this, and (you guessed it) it stumbles for a few seconds. This sensor works resembling a volume control on a radio, so when they get bad, they inject adjectives kinds of wild reading to the computer, and the computer doesn't know the difference, thus the engine stumbles, sputters, and shutters until it finally sees a constant reading. This is how a radio does when the volume control doesn't respond to the movement of the knob, and the volume is all over the place until you find a place it will work at. As I said, the computer have no way of knowing if you are standing on the gas or not, so it may or may not set a code, or it sets one, and clears it as soon as the sensor begins to work right. There is an nouns of the sensor that sees all the work, and this is where on earth you have the gas pedal most of the time. This area will wear out (just close to the radio volume), and there ya go.
Glad to facilitate out, Good Luck!
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Answers: This one has to go rear legs to the dealer. they have the tester that will work on your saloon. cost for that about $75.00
Oxygen sensor is the usual culprit.
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