So shifting from 1st to 2nd cause a difficulty and some clunking.
3rd to 2nd downshifts cause a clunk but not in the vicinity as bad.
The gears are up to date, the shift forks are new.
The bike hasn't run within 40 years but, their are new parts surrounded by the transmission, could the lutch pack be making this hesitiation? It merely does it in gear #2, could the shift drum be worn out?
Any accepted wisdom?
I would like to seize this out on the street again since it looks fresh off the assembly file.
Answers: Unicycle ,,way cool!
Those things amaze & mystify me.
I can't even Hold one up next to my hands standing subsequent to it,,lol
Place I grew up had a proximate town which was terribly small &rural.
So small that elementary grades, jr. hi,and hi school be all combined,,,and they Still didn't hold enough kids of any age group to own any kind of Sports Team.
Except Unicycle,,,no kiddin'.
P.E. /Gym Class be "the Unicycle team",,,and EVERY Kid of Every description that went to that institution learned how to ride a uni-.
They have a exhibition team,,and stunt riders,etc,etc
Most adjectives the kids could ride better than most people can walk/run/stand.
Then we've get some guys 'round my current home town who ride the 5',6',7' tall ones,,,,,,which is only just absolutely incomprehensible to me.
More Amazing than Magic
..................................
About your 65,,,,
Those engines be FILLED with slack,,,from engine to reverse wheel.
Odds of a problem near shift drum are next to ZERO.
What You're hunch is the Old Double-Dog 2nd Drive Gear on Mainshaft,,(as in,,"Double Dog Dare Ya to try to Speed Shift it!")
Seriously,,They Really did with the sole purpose have 2 dogs.
and the Old BOLT-IN shift fork drive pins.
All eventually superceded,,,to a 4Dog Gear and actual clip retained Roller Pins.
If bike have been gone into,,,
there's a Slim Possibility of "That Left Over Washer" lay on the bench.
Not an unusual Ommission.
Bike WILL Shift without it,,but is intermittently REALLY crappy sense,,,and in faultless conditions it sure can make 'em grind into gear-----more of a "clatter" than a grind,in actual fact.
Look over by Countershaft Sprocket,,,Directly above it.
NOT the Neutral Light Switch.
But the Rubber Plug .
There's supposed to be a Bolt with a "Hardened Washer" surrounded by that cavity.
What that is ,,is the Shift Drum Retainer/LOCATOR.
Without it,,,shift drum stays Basically within place---but it exhibits a BUNCH of end-float especially when shifting.
The effect is quite similar to "bent shift fork",,,cause only partial engagement of the gear dogs.
Yours most probably have all that surrounded by good charge.
But,,,it's Possibility,,,and easy to check.
And if it Is missing..it DOES explanation odd shifting.
Very Easy to fix,,,newly screw in a plain 6mm Bolt,,,and really "Best " to use a Hard Washer.
Any Honda buyer has those washers,,,they retained ALL the ignition advancers thru 60's 70's 80's.
Most Hardware stores hold a 6mm or 1/4" equivalent.
Another thing which get sloppy and causes tuff shifting----
But not immensely often the problem on Majority of Hondas,,,
is the "Shift Drum Stopper Lever"
It's rather arm with a small roller on the shutting of it.
That it Actually the Index Stop which locates the Drum into proper position per-gear-selected.
It ALSO is what actually Completes the Shift intitiated by rider's foot......long story we'll skip here.
But it Does assist Shift completion,,as okay as "Latching it into the Selected Gear".
ROLLER Wear on those things is OFTEN a culprit on Most Jap Bikes of that era.
Even back when the bikes be New,,,6 months,,a year old,etc.
They are Allways Spring Loaded,,,and the SPRING be rarely ever a problem.
But we replaced them arbitrarily when installing up to date stopper lever,,"just because".
Consider that contained by 1965,,,I had Never see a 40~45 year old Spring.
Nor within '75,,or '85.
As time marched on,,as you would expect I saw increasingly aged ones.
And they All SEEMED to still be holding up OK.
BUT,,I also was no longer seeing 50~100 of them Weekly,,,a 1,000++ a year.
A Coil Spring within service eventually fails from Operation Cycles.
They'll also go amiss from SITTING static under load----they clutch a "set" and lose preloaded tension.
I Seriously DOUBT that Stopper Lever Spring is bleak,,or even un-useably weakened.
But it IS a distinct possible after have sat static lower than load for so long.
Their strength is "marginal" even when brand tentative.
A Little wear on the Lever coupled with a Little delicateness in the Spring can Absolutely inflict Shift Difficulties.
If Your trans Does shift thru the gears,,,and STAYS in gear once it's finally unavailable,,,
Odds are only smaller number than maybe 5% there's any problem beside the Transmission /shift drum/forks .
But if it's shifting crappy,,,about a 75%+% karma it needs the detent assy replaced--theStopper Lever and it's spring.
...............................
Clutches on those things are course sloppy.
Which is sorta a Good Thing.
Very Rarely does misadjustment account for shift competence probs.
But,,as with ANY clutch,,,adjustment CAN affect shifting.
They own a compound lever clutch release system.
Simple to figure out when looking at it,,,and simple to adjust.
It allows a relatively broad band of adjustment while still providing plenty of travel (a)the clutch for a clean ,,no-drag break.
--Pull the Round Plate stale R/Hand engine cover
_Disconnect Cable from clutch arm on engine(It's just easier to bring a good quality,,,,NOT necessary)
-Use the central adjuster screw surrounded by there,to allow Cable Arm on engine to progress DOWN as far as possible.
-Which usually means screw AdjusterScrew IN.
If it bottoms out upon the Cluch,,back it rotten 1 full turn or so.And make reliable it doesnt turn back In when tightening it's lock nut.
--the Inline/Mid-Cable adjuster will want to be screwed In to re-install the cable.
Make and needed "fine adjustments" with the CABLE.
All that can be Tricky,,it's a go together of the various adjustment.
Thing to strive for is this:
1)Keep CableLever on engine adjusted DOWN far as possible
2)maintain Some freeplay between Adjuster Screw and Actual Clutch Assy
that yield the largest amount of throw-out mechanism travel available to break expand clutch cleanly&Fully when Clutch hand Lever is pulled.
Note:as near All Bikes,,,,the Freeplay in the Hand lever is NOT primarily a business of Personal Choice.
Only after the Mechanism's Functional Demand's have be satisfied can the rider kind minor adjustments to suit their personal prefferences.
Which mode a pretty "tight" hand lever near only a Little slack.
........................
Oil have an influence on several aspects of trans/clutch feel and function.
If it's "Too Cold" for 20w-50,,,,,too fruitless.
Straight 30w or 40w (if ya live in 95~100* Climate)is what I'd use.
Valvoline or Pennzoil
.........................................
As fonky as your nouns seems,,,It MIGHT own issues,,,but I doubt it's anything serious or major.
They're sorta resembling that.
Gotta realize,,,that lil box SEEMED Slick & Smooth as Butta in '65.
Compared to Harleys,and Triumphs,and Brit's AMC & Burmans.
THOSE are what the Experienced Riders refferenced the contemporary wave of Jap Bikes to.
The "New Riders" subsidise then which have no other actual experience,,REPEATED what they heard.
But they have no Real Grounds for Comparrison.
So when you HEAR,,,
"Naaaaaw,,,those old Hondas shifted GREAT!! I have one,,so I KNOW".
In Their PERCEPTION,,yeah they Did work good.
Thats ALL they KNEW.
But even by impulsive 70's standards,,,the first 60's boxes were NOT as slick as they are Remembered to be.
They Truly DID work Great,,,COMPARATIVELY,,within their day.
But Flipping the ol',,,,"If we can convey a Man to The Moon...."
Your Transmission was PRODUCED,,consent to alone Designed,,
a Half Decade before anybody ever get to the Moon.
So,,,MAYBE it was someone who thought,,,"If Honda can form a Transmission THIS MUCH BETTER than Triumphs and Harleys....then we oughta be capable of Send a man to the Moon" :)
Seriously,,,,They were Great lil' Bikes,,have Very Good transmissions,,,
but by Todays Standards,,,and even 70's and later standards...
They Shift Clunky and quirky sometimes.
But they ARE noticeably at least POSITIVE shifting when within working order.
If Much is wrong at adjectives,,,they get Really Bad ,Quick.
And only just plain wont shift thru the gears,,or stay in elected gear.
Good Luck with it,,,,what a really cool bike to hold.
Even if You're Half Wrong about the condition,,,it would still be an exceptional example among the FEW which enjoy survived.
use a bicycle
3rd to 2nd downshifts cause a clunk but not in the vicinity as bad.
The gears are up to date, the shift forks are new.
The bike hasn't run within 40 years but, their are new parts surrounded by the transmission, could the lutch pack be making this hesitiation? It merely does it in gear #2, could the shift drum be worn out?
Any accepted wisdom?
I would like to seize this out on the street again since it looks fresh off the assembly file.
Getting my bike running again?
Answers: Unicycle ,,way cool!
Those things amaze & mystify me.
I can't even Hold one up next to my hands standing subsequent to it,,lol
Place I grew up had a proximate town which was terribly small &rural.
So small that elementary grades, jr. hi,and hi school be all combined,,,and they Still didn't hold enough kids of any age group to own any kind of Sports Team.
Except Unicycle,,,no kiddin'.
P.E. /Gym Class be "the Unicycle team",,,and EVERY Kid of Every description that went to that institution learned how to ride a uni-.
They have a exhibition team,,and stunt riders,etc,etc
Most adjectives the kids could ride better than most people can walk/run/stand.
Then we've get some guys 'round my current home town who ride the 5',6',7' tall ones,,,,,,which is only just absolutely incomprehensible to me.
More Amazing than Magic
..................................
About your 65,,,,
Those engines be FILLED with slack,,,from engine to reverse wheel.
Odds of a problem near shift drum are next to ZERO.
What You're hunch is the Old Double-Dog 2nd Drive Gear on Mainshaft,,(as in,,"Double Dog Dare Ya to try to Speed Shift it!")
Seriously,,They Really did with the sole purpose have 2 dogs.
and the Old BOLT-IN shift fork drive pins.
All eventually superceded,,,to a 4Dog Gear and actual clip retained Roller Pins.
If bike have been gone into,,,
there's a Slim Possibility of "That Left Over Washer" lay on the bench.
Not an unusual Ommission.
Bike WILL Shift without it,,but is intermittently REALLY crappy sense,,,and in faultless conditions it sure can make 'em grind into gear-----more of a "clatter" than a grind,in actual fact.
Look over by Countershaft Sprocket,,,Directly above it.
NOT the Neutral Light Switch.
But the Rubber Plug .
There's supposed to be a Bolt with a "Hardened Washer" surrounded by that cavity.
What that is ,,is the Shift Drum Retainer/LOCATOR.
Without it,,,shift drum stays Basically within place---but it exhibits a BUNCH of end-float especially when shifting.
The effect is quite similar to "bent shift fork",,,cause only partial engagement of the gear dogs.
Yours most probably have all that surrounded by good charge.
But,,,it's Possibility,,,and easy to check.
And if it Is missing..it DOES explanation odd shifting.
Very Easy to fix,,,newly screw in a plain 6mm Bolt,,,and really "Best " to use a Hard Washer.
Any Honda buyer has those washers,,,they retained ALL the ignition advancers thru 60's 70's 80's.
Most Hardware stores hold a 6mm or 1/4" equivalent.
Another thing which get sloppy and causes tuff shifting----
But not immensely often the problem on Majority of Hondas,,,
is the "Shift Drum Stopper Lever"
It's rather arm with a small roller on the shutting of it.
That it Actually the Index Stop which locates the Drum into proper position per-gear-selected.
It ALSO is what actually Completes the Shift intitiated by rider's foot......long story we'll skip here.
But it Does assist Shift completion,,as okay as "Latching it into the Selected Gear".
ROLLER Wear on those things is OFTEN a culprit on Most Jap Bikes of that era.
Even back when the bikes be New,,,6 months,,a year old,etc.
They are Allways Spring Loaded,,,and the SPRING be rarely ever a problem.
But we replaced them arbitrarily when installing up to date stopper lever,,"just because".
Consider that contained by 1965,,,I had Never see a 40~45 year old Spring.
Nor within '75,,or '85.
As time marched on,,as you would expect I saw increasingly aged ones.
And they All SEEMED to still be holding up OK.
BUT,,I also was no longer seeing 50~100 of them Weekly,,,a 1,000++ a year.
A Coil Spring within service eventually fails from Operation Cycles.
They'll also go amiss from SITTING static under load----they clutch a "set" and lose preloaded tension.
I Seriously DOUBT that Stopper Lever Spring is bleak,,or even un-useably weakened.
But it IS a distinct possible after have sat static lower than load for so long.
Their strength is "marginal" even when brand tentative.
A Little wear on the Lever coupled with a Little delicateness in the Spring can Absolutely inflict Shift Difficulties.
If Your trans Does shift thru the gears,,,and STAYS in gear once it's finally unavailable,,,
Odds are only smaller number than maybe 5% there's any problem beside the Transmission /shift drum/forks .
But if it's shifting crappy,,,about a 75%+% karma it needs the detent assy replaced--theStopper Lever and it's spring.
...............................
Clutches on those things are course sloppy.
Which is sorta a Good Thing.
Very Rarely does misadjustment account for shift competence probs.
But,,as with ANY clutch,,,adjustment CAN affect shifting.
They own a compound lever clutch release system.
Simple to figure out when looking at it,,,and simple to adjust.
It allows a relatively broad band of adjustment while still providing plenty of travel (a)the clutch for a clean ,,no-drag break.
--Pull the Round Plate stale R/Hand engine cover
_Disconnect Cable from clutch arm on engine(It's just easier to bring a good quality,,,,NOT necessary)
-Use the central adjuster screw surrounded by there,to allow Cable Arm on engine to progress DOWN as far as possible.
-Which usually means screw AdjusterScrew IN.
If it bottoms out upon the Cluch,,back it rotten 1 full turn or so.And make reliable it doesnt turn back In when tightening it's lock nut.
--the Inline/Mid-Cable adjuster will want to be screwed In to re-install the cable.
Make and needed "fine adjustments" with the CABLE.
All that can be Tricky,,it's a go together of the various adjustment.
Thing to strive for is this:
1)Keep CableLever on engine adjusted DOWN far as possible
2)maintain Some freeplay between Adjuster Screw and Actual Clutch Assy
that yield the largest amount of throw-out mechanism travel available to break expand clutch cleanly&Fully when Clutch hand Lever is pulled.
Note:as near All Bikes,,,,the Freeplay in the Hand lever is NOT primarily a business of Personal Choice.
Only after the Mechanism's Functional Demand's have be satisfied can the rider kind minor adjustments to suit their personal prefferences.
Which mode a pretty "tight" hand lever near only a Little slack.
........................
Oil have an influence on several aspects of trans/clutch feel and function.
If it's "Too Cold" for 20w-50,,,,,too fruitless.
Straight 30w or 40w (if ya live in 95~100* Climate)is what I'd use.
Valvoline or Pennzoil
.........................................
As fonky as your nouns seems,,,It MIGHT own issues,,,but I doubt it's anything serious or major.
They're sorta resembling that.
Gotta realize,,,that lil box SEEMED Slick & Smooth as Butta in '65.
Compared to Harleys,and Triumphs,and Brit's AMC & Burmans.
THOSE are what the Experienced Riders refferenced the contemporary wave of Jap Bikes to.
The "New Riders" subsidise then which have no other actual experience,,REPEATED what they heard.
But they have no Real Grounds for Comparrison.
So when you HEAR,,,
"Naaaaaw,,,those old Hondas shifted GREAT!! I have one,,so I KNOW".
In Their PERCEPTION,,yeah they Did work good.
Thats ALL they KNEW.
But even by impulsive 70's standards,,,the first 60's boxes were NOT as slick as they are Remembered to be.
They Truly DID work Great,,,COMPARATIVELY,,within their day.
But Flipping the ol',,,,"If we can convey a Man to The Moon...."
Your Transmission was PRODUCED,,consent to alone Designed,,
a Half Decade before anybody ever get to the Moon.
So,,,MAYBE it was someone who thought,,,"If Honda can form a Transmission THIS MUCH BETTER than Triumphs and Harleys....then we oughta be capable of Send a man to the Moon" :)
Seriously,,,,They were Great lil' Bikes,,have Very Good transmissions,,,
but by Todays Standards,,,and even 70's and later standards...
They Shift Clunky and quirky sometimes.
But they ARE noticeably at least POSITIVE shifting when within working order.
If Much is wrong at adjectives,,,they get Really Bad ,Quick.
And only just plain wont shift thru the gears,,or stay in elected gear.
Good Luck with it,,,,what a really cool bike to hold.
Even if You're Half Wrong about the condition,,,it would still be an exceptional example among the FEW which enjoy survived.
use a bicycle
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