i have just bought a 9r that have been left to sit for a while (about 8 months) which be not prepared properly for being left. it have its mot in a couple of days, ive changed all fluids, air/oil filter and spark plugs but im wondering if i should verbs the carbs.
how easy are they to do? im pretty handy with standard maintenence and what ever problems may arise but i hold never dealt with carbs.
any abet is appreciated
I would NOT try to disassemble and clean the carbs - unless they show that they really want it. 8 months of non-op is not that bad. i would remove and dump the tank (out the fill) to bring back ALL the old gas out and look inside with a flash table lamp to see if there is any flakey residue to wash out. This would be hardened varnish from the stale gas. Each carb should hold a bowl drain screw that you should open and hope some liquid fuel comes out. I would consequently try some fresh gas and one of the carb cleaners suggested by other answerers and put a couple gallons in the tank and also crawl the carbs. Your fuel tap probably is vacuum controlled and maybe have a "prime" position that bypasses the vacuum control. This will bypass the vacuum control and fill the carbs. If you don't have a prime position you will hold to get one of those little hand squeeze vac pumps from your local auto store and hook it up to the vac file on the fuel tap. Most (?) manufacturers use these vacuum controlled tap to automatically turn off the fuel when the engine stops. Anyway arrange to run the fresh gas and the cleaner mix into the carbs and check to see if any flood. that would mean that the float valve are not sealing. i would turn off the fuel slap - or return it to normal "ON" vacuum controlled setting. Anyway try to start and run. it might be ok and/or give the cleaner some time to work and it might be ok later. Of course if it doesn't run right - sputters, coughs misses - the carbs will need to be torn down and completely cleaned and rebuilt. You might also hold an inline filter to check out and make sure it is not plugged. Get a new one if needed.
Congrats on the new bike, your going to love it.
8 months is not to impossible. I would drain all the gas out of the tank and carbs. Fill next to fresh gas and some sea foam. Then see how it runs. You may not have any trouble. Pulling the carbs and cleaning can be a agony. Getting them off is not as bad as getting them fund on. The rubber boots connecting the carbs to the intake can be tricky.
I do them one at a time. And, if you don't bang them around a lot or separate them, you shouldn't enjoy to re-sync after re-assembly.
Remember things like how far the pilot jets be turned and you should be ok.
Take the carb apart and soak all the parts (non-plastic) in kerosene (or other solvent). Get solvent into the fuel and nouns passages of the carb too. After that blow all the passage out with compressed air. Blow out the jet and other small parts with compressed air as capably.
Make sure everything is good and clean since re-assembling.
Don't forget to clean the fuel lines, filter, tank. You might want to bear the petcock off and disassemble and clean it too.
The service guide will give you step-by-step instructions for disassembly and re-assembly of the carbs, petcock, etc.
The most difficult part of the carb verbs, will be in the removal & installation of the carbs.
Aside from that, cleaning a set of carbuetors that are in sort of good condition isn't that difficult.
The float bowls have to be removed (4 screw and nothing will fall out when you remove them).
The pilot squirt gets unscrewed (long and thin jet).
Hold the shot up to the light, you should be able to see through it (the jet's gap is thinner than a paper clip and very glib to get clogged with unpromising gas).
Carb cleaner in a spray can is needed to spray through the jet, every walkway of the carb and bad gas stuck to the float bowl.
Here are a few tips on removing the carbs.
Search for question "Any tips on removing the carburetors from a 1980 cb750k?" to read my answer.
Your bike - the carbs are lift up, not slipped sideways to remove & replace.
Also with Kawasakis, the throttle housing on the handlebars has to be open up - to give the cables satisfactory slack to remove them from the carbs.
Shop manual - http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
Parts diagrams - http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts
Draw, or take pictures next to a digital camera, or cell phone, to help remind you of how things are attached and cable routing.
I would NOT try to disassemble and clean the carbs - unless they show that they really want it. 8 months of non-op is not that bad. i would remove and dump the tank (out the fill) to bring back ALL the old gas out and look inside with a flash table lamp to see if there is any flakey residue to wash out. This would be hardened varnish from the stale gas. Each carb should hold a bowl drain screw that you should open and hope some liquid fuel comes out. I would consequently try some fresh gas and one of the carb cleaners suggested by other answerers and put a couple gallons in the tank and also crawl the carbs. Your fuel tap probably is vacuum controlled and maybe have a "prime" position that bypasses the vacuum control. This will bypass the vacuum control and fill the carbs. If you don't have a prime position you will hold to get one of those little hand squeeze vac pumps from your local auto store and hook it up to the vac file on the fuel tap. Most (?) manufacturers use these vacuum controlled tap to automatically turn off the fuel when the engine stops. Anyway arrange to run the fresh gas and the cleaner mix into the carbs and check to see if any flood. that would mean that the float valve are not sealing. i would turn off the fuel slap - or return it to normal "ON" vacuum controlled setting. Anyway try to start and run. it might be ok and/or give the cleaner some time to work and it might be ok later. Of course if it doesn't run right - sputters, coughs misses - the carbs will need to be torn down and completely cleaned and rebuilt. You might also hold an inline filter to check out and make sure it is not plugged. Get a new one if needed.
Depending on how long it has set, it may require a complete rip down of the carbs and the jets cleaned out with special squirt drills or reamer. Most bigger dealers have those tools. I don't recommend trying to verbs the jets with anything else. The drills /reamers are specially sized for the largest and pilot jets. If the engine runs, try running some Seafoam http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp. in the fuel for 3 or 4 tank. If this stuff does not cure the problem, you will need the carbs cleaned
Answers: Eight months. During winter time at storage?? I would like try to drain fuel from carburetors. and put fresh gas in fuel reservoir. then try to run.
What kind of fuel you use adjectives the time?? Unleaded or Super Unleaded.
Super unleaded is much better than unleaded gas. Super unleaded wont get green in long storage. Unleaded do that.
If it run nouns great, You will be lucky. If sounds terrible. Then you need to verbs carbs.
for you to clean carbs. the major to remove carb. Remove fuel reservoir, Side covers, Seats, Move air box to rear of bike. after disconnect choke and throttle cables and fuel lines.
If you are not sure with the carburetor. Take it to shop. They enjoy more experience than rookie. sometime they do first time to clean it up and out back on bike. next run bad again. You have to pinch carb out again.
as in the futurre. Put fuel stabilzer in it. and run your bike once a week or once every other week. and charge your battery-operated. for me . I will fill up my gastank full to top. and disconnect the fuel line and drain the fuel on carb bowl. It release our costly to send repair shop.
Added.
Yeah It sound similar to you need to clean up carburator. because you preserve the choke on. you said rpm 200?? that is low, Could be 2,000 rpms.
as you mention about whining tumult. It could be gears or engine gears inside make whiney noise. no nouns. it makes noises. Hope it help.
Uneven rpm. It could be airleak at intake madifold. or low speed mixture 9 Fuel) is not complete. need to clean up pilot squirt and low speed mixture screw. And need to balance carburator Special tool to match each carbs by vacuum/ mecury levels. If not sure. I would please steal to shop. If you are uncomfortable to work on it.
Congrats on the new bike, your going to love it.
8 months is not to impossible. I would drain all the gas out of the tank and carbs. Fill next to fresh gas and some sea foam. Then see how it runs. You may not have any trouble. Pulling the carbs and cleaning can be a agony. Getting them off is not as bad as getting them fund on. The rubber boots connecting the carbs to the intake can be tricky.
The most difficult part of the carb verbs, will be in the removal & installation of the carbs.
Aside from that, cleaning a set of carbuetors that are in sort of good condition isn't that difficult.
The float bowls have to be removed (4 screw and nothing will fall out when you remove them).
The pilot squirt gets unscrewed (long and thin jet).
Hold the shot up to the light, you should be able to see through it (the jet's gap is thinner than a paper clip and very glib to get clogged with unpromising gas).
Carb cleaner in a spray can is needed to spray through the jet, every walkway of the carb and bad gas stuck to the float bowl.
Here are a few tips on removing the carbs.
Search for question "Any tips on removing the carburetors from a 1980 cb750k?" to read my answer.
Your bike - the carbs are lift up, not slipped sideways to remove & replace.
Also with Kawasakis, the throttle housing on the handlebars has to be open up - to give the cables satisfactory slack to remove them from the carbs.
Shop manual - http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
Parts diagrams - http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts
Draw, or take pictures next to a digital camera, or cell phone, to help remind you of how things are attached and cable routing.
I would NOT try to disassemble and clean the carbs - unless they show that they really want it. 8 months of non-op is not that bad. i would remove and dump the tank (out the fill) to bring back ALL the old gas out and look inside with a flash table lamp to see if there is any flakey residue to wash out. This would be hardened varnish from the stale gas. Each carb should hold a bowl drain screw that you should open and hope some liquid fuel comes out. I would consequently try some fresh gas and one of the carb cleaners suggested by other answerers and put a couple gallons in the tank and also crawl the carbs. Your fuel tap probably is vacuum controlled and maybe have a "prime" position that bypasses the vacuum control. This will bypass the vacuum control and fill the carbs. If you don't have a prime position you will hold to get one of those little hand squeeze vac pumps from your local auto store and hook it up to the vac file on the fuel tap. Most (?) manufacturers use these vacuum controlled tap to automatically turn off the fuel when the engine stops. Anyway arrange to run the fresh gas and the cleaner mix into the carbs and check to see if any flood. that would mean that the float valve are not sealing. i would turn off the fuel slap - or return it to normal "ON" vacuum controlled setting. Anyway try to start and run. it might be ok and/or give the cleaner some time to work and it might be ok later. Of course if it doesn't run right - sputters, coughs misses - the carbs will need to be torn down and completely cleaned and rebuilt. You might also hold an inline filter to check out and make sure it is not plugged. Get a new one if needed.
As for carbs, it will not hurt to make a contribution them a clean.
Motrax do a carb cleaner kit, cant remember the cross of hand, try the dealer schedule near you.
http://www.motrax.co.uk/dealers.php?coun...
Depending on how long it has set, it may require a complete rip down of the carbs and the jets cleaned out with special squirt drills or reamer. Most bigger dealers have those tools. I don't recommend trying to verbs the jets with anything else. The drills /reamers are specially sized for the largest and pilot jets. If the engine runs, try running some Seafoam http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp. in the fuel for 3 or 4 tank. If this stuff does not cure the problem, you will need the carbs cleaned
how easy are they to do? im pretty handy with standard maintenence and what ever problems may arise but i hold never dealt with carbs.
any abet is appreciated
I would NOT try to disassemble and clean the carbs - unless they show that they really want it. 8 months of non-op is not that bad. i would remove and dump the tank (out the fill) to bring back ALL the old gas out and look inside with a flash table lamp to see if there is any flakey residue to wash out. This would be hardened varnish from the stale gas. Each carb should hold a bowl drain screw that you should open and hope some liquid fuel comes out. I would consequently try some fresh gas and one of the carb cleaners suggested by other answerers and put a couple gallons in the tank and also crawl the carbs. Your fuel tap probably is vacuum controlled and maybe have a "prime" position that bypasses the vacuum control. This will bypass the vacuum control and fill the carbs. If you don't have a prime position you will hold to get one of those little hand squeeze vac pumps from your local auto store and hook it up to the vac file on the fuel tap. Most (?) manufacturers use these vacuum controlled tap to automatically turn off the fuel when the engine stops. Anyway arrange to run the fresh gas and the cleaner mix into the carbs and check to see if any flood. that would mean that the float valve are not sealing. i would turn off the fuel slap - or return it to normal "ON" vacuum controlled setting. Anyway try to start and run. it might be ok and/or give the cleaner some time to work and it might be ok later. Of course if it doesn't run right - sputters, coughs misses - the carbs will need to be torn down and completely cleaned and rebuilt. You might also hold an inline filter to check out and make sure it is not plugged. Get a new one if needed.
Congrats on the new bike, your going to love it.
8 months is not to impossible. I would drain all the gas out of the tank and carbs. Fill next to fresh gas and some sea foam. Then see how it runs. You may not have any trouble. Pulling the carbs and cleaning can be a agony. Getting them off is not as bad as getting them fund on. The rubber boots connecting the carbs to the intake can be tricky.
I hold a honda atv near the...
I have a 1999 ZX-6R and cleaning the carbs is an afternoon chore. You really should hold a service manual just within case you forget exactly what goes where on earth. But other than that, it's just plain employment.I do them one at a time. And, if you don't bang them around a lot or separate them, you shouldn't enjoy to re-sync after re-assembly.
Remember things like how far the pilot jets be turned and you should be ok.
Take the carb apart and soak all the parts (non-plastic) in kerosene (or other solvent). Get solvent into the fuel and nouns passages of the carb too. After that blow all the passage out with compressed air. Blow out the jet and other small parts with compressed air as capably.
Make sure everything is good and clean since re-assembling.
Don't forget to clean the fuel lines, filter, tank. You might want to bear the petcock off and disassemble and clean it too.
The service guide will give you step-by-step instructions for disassembly and re-assembly of the carbs, petcock, etc.
The most difficult part of the carb verbs, will be in the removal & installation of the carbs.
Aside from that, cleaning a set of carbuetors that are in sort of good condition isn't that difficult.
The float bowls have to be removed (4 screw and nothing will fall out when you remove them).
The pilot squirt gets unscrewed (long and thin jet).
Hold the shot up to the light, you should be able to see through it (the jet's gap is thinner than a paper clip and very glib to get clogged with unpromising gas).
Carb cleaner in a spray can is needed to spray through the jet, every walkway of the carb and bad gas stuck to the float bowl.
Here are a few tips on removing the carbs.
Search for question "Any tips on removing the carburetors from a 1980 cb750k?" to read my answer.
Your bike - the carbs are lift up, not slipped sideways to remove & replace.
Also with Kawasakis, the throttle housing on the handlebars has to be open up - to give the cables satisfactory slack to remove them from the carbs.
Shop manual - http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
Parts diagrams - http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts
Draw, or take pictures next to a digital camera, or cell phone, to help remind you of how things are attached and cable routing.
I would NOT try to disassemble and clean the carbs - unless they show that they really want it. 8 months of non-op is not that bad. i would remove and dump the tank (out the fill) to bring back ALL the old gas out and look inside with a flash table lamp to see if there is any flakey residue to wash out. This would be hardened varnish from the stale gas. Each carb should hold a bowl drain screw that you should open and hope some liquid fuel comes out. I would consequently try some fresh gas and one of the carb cleaners suggested by other answerers and put a couple gallons in the tank and also crawl the carbs. Your fuel tap probably is vacuum controlled and maybe have a "prime" position that bypasses the vacuum control. This will bypass the vacuum control and fill the carbs. If you don't have a prime position you will hold to get one of those little hand squeeze vac pumps from your local auto store and hook it up to the vac file on the fuel tap. Most (?) manufacturers use these vacuum controlled tap to automatically turn off the fuel when the engine stops. Anyway arrange to run the fresh gas and the cleaner mix into the carbs and check to see if any flood. that would mean that the float valve are not sealing. i would turn off the fuel slap - or return it to normal "ON" vacuum controlled setting. Anyway try to start and run. it might be ok and/or give the cleaner some time to work and it might be ok later. Of course if it doesn't run right - sputters, coughs misses - the carbs will need to be torn down and completely cleaned and rebuilt. You might also hold an inline filter to check out and make sure it is not plugged. Get a new one if needed.
Depending on how long it has set, it may require a complete rip down of the carbs and the jets cleaned out with special squirt drills or reamer. Most bigger dealers have those tools. I don't recommend trying to verbs the jets with anything else. The drills /reamers are specially sized for the largest and pilot jets. If the engine runs, try running some Seafoam http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp. in the fuel for 3 or 4 tank. If this stuff does not cure the problem, you will need the carbs cleaned
Do you have need of someone else...
Answers: Eight months. During winter time at storage?? I would like try to drain fuel from carburetors. and put fresh gas in fuel reservoir. then try to run.
What kind of fuel you use adjectives the time?? Unleaded or Super Unleaded.
Super unleaded is much better than unleaded gas. Super unleaded wont get green in long storage. Unleaded do that.
If it run nouns great, You will be lucky. If sounds terrible. Then you need to verbs carbs.
for you to clean carbs. the major to remove carb. Remove fuel reservoir, Side covers, Seats, Move air box to rear of bike. after disconnect choke and throttle cables and fuel lines.
If you are not sure with the carburetor. Take it to shop. They enjoy more experience than rookie. sometime they do first time to clean it up and out back on bike. next run bad again. You have to pinch carb out again.
as in the futurre. Put fuel stabilzer in it. and run your bike once a week or once every other week. and charge your battery-operated. for me . I will fill up my gastank full to top. and disconnect the fuel line and drain the fuel on carb bowl. It release our costly to send repair shop.
Added.
Yeah It sound similar to you need to clean up carburator. because you preserve the choke on. you said rpm 200?? that is low, Could be 2,000 rpms.
as you mention about whining tumult. It could be gears or engine gears inside make whiney noise. no nouns. it makes noises. Hope it help.
Uneven rpm. It could be airleak at intake madifold. or low speed mixture 9 Fuel) is not complete. need to clean up pilot squirt and low speed mixture screw. And need to balance carburator Special tool to match each carbs by vacuum/ mecury levels. If not sure. I would please steal to shop. If you are uncomfortable to work on it.
Congrats on the new bike, your going to love it.
8 months is not to impossible. I would drain all the gas out of the tank and carbs. Fill next to fresh gas and some sea foam. Then see how it runs. You may not have any trouble. Pulling the carbs and cleaning can be a agony. Getting them off is not as bad as getting them fund on. The rubber boots connecting the carbs to the intake can be tricky.
What is the level of aharley ...
The most difficult part of the carb verbs, will be in the removal & installation of the carbs.
Aside from that, cleaning a set of carbuetors that are in sort of good condition isn't that difficult.
The float bowls have to be removed (4 screw and nothing will fall out when you remove them).
The pilot squirt gets unscrewed (long and thin jet).
Hold the shot up to the light, you should be able to see through it (the jet's gap is thinner than a paper clip and very glib to get clogged with unpromising gas).
Carb cleaner in a spray can is needed to spray through the jet, every walkway of the carb and bad gas stuck to the float bowl.
Here are a few tips on removing the carbs.
Search for question "Any tips on removing the carburetors from a 1980 cb750k?" to read my answer.
Your bike - the carbs are lift up, not slipped sideways to remove & replace.
Also with Kawasakis, the throttle housing on the handlebars has to be open up - to give the cables satisfactory slack to remove them from the carbs.
Shop manual - http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
Parts diagrams - http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts
Draw, or take pictures next to a digital camera, or cell phone, to help remind you of how things are attached and cable routing.
I would NOT try to disassemble and clean the carbs - unless they show that they really want it. 8 months of non-op is not that bad. i would remove and dump the tank (out the fill) to bring back ALL the old gas out and look inside with a flash table lamp to see if there is any flakey residue to wash out. This would be hardened varnish from the stale gas. Each carb should hold a bowl drain screw that you should open and hope some liquid fuel comes out. I would consequently try some fresh gas and one of the carb cleaners suggested by other answerers and put a couple gallons in the tank and also crawl the carbs. Your fuel tap probably is vacuum controlled and maybe have a "prime" position that bypasses the vacuum control. This will bypass the vacuum control and fill the carbs. If you don't have a prime position you will hold to get one of those little hand squeeze vac pumps from your local auto store and hook it up to the vac file on the fuel tap. Most (?) manufacturers use these vacuum controlled tap to automatically turn off the fuel when the engine stops. Anyway arrange to run the fresh gas and the cleaner mix into the carbs and check to see if any flood. that would mean that the float valve are not sealing. i would turn off the fuel slap - or return it to normal "ON" vacuum controlled setting. Anyway try to start and run. it might be ok and/or give the cleaner some time to work and it might be ok later. Of course if it doesn't run right - sputters, coughs misses - the carbs will need to be torn down and completely cleaned and rebuilt. You might also hold an inline filter to check out and make sure it is not plugged. Get a new one if needed.
How lots miles do i ride previously...
Nice bike Paul. My freind has one, always complained roughly the front brake sticking, so now use's EBC sintered pads and no problems.As for carbs, it will not hurt to make a contribution them a clean.
Motrax do a carb cleaner kit, cant remember the cross of hand, try the dealer schedule near you.
http://www.motrax.co.uk/dealers.php?coun...
Depending on how long it has set, it may require a complete rip down of the carbs and the jets cleaned out with special squirt drills or reamer. Most bigger dealers have those tools. I don't recommend trying to verbs the jets with anything else. The drills /reamers are specially sized for the largest and pilot jets. If the engine runs, try running some Seafoam http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp. in the fuel for 3 or 4 tank. If this stuff does not cure the problem, you will need the carbs cleaned
Does anyone know any nature of motorbike...
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