The battery is fine,there is an output ffrom the alternator but i cant find the rectifier to check that.?The charge does not come across to get to the battery-has anyone come across this fault.?
There is sometimes a fuse within the charging system that may be blown.
The rectifier is usually underneath the right hand panel as you are sitting on bike, it needs to be contained by accessible place due to having the need to expel seriously of heat so shouldn't be hard to find if it's not at hand.
Edit:
Obviously not the same as my 400 then, anyway. If your alternator is putting out 20-30 volts it is course too much, should be between 13 - 15 to keep it charged and not fry the battery.
If you are not getting power to the battery-operated could still be the fuse
There is one for sale on ebay, click link below.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAWASAKI-ZXR750-ZX...
The rectifier is usually found inside the alternator. Remove the cap nuts,take past its sell-by date the end cap.The brush assembly,regulator and rectifier can adjectives now be removed and checked.When you are testing the rectifier do NOT!! use a megger or a meter next to large capacity battery-operated or the rectifier will be damaged.
The regulator & rectifier are incorporated inside of the generator.
A couple of times I've just given up and replaced the entire component.
You want to waste your time testing and replacing parts?
Purchase a shop guide for explicite instructions.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
Good luck.
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
There is sometimes a fuse within the charging system that may be blown.
The rectifier is usually underneath the right hand panel as you are sitting on bike, it needs to be contained by accessible place due to having the need to expel seriously of heat so shouldn't be hard to find if it's not at hand.
Edit:
Obviously not the same as my 400 then, anyway. If your alternator is putting out 20-30 volts it is course too much, should be between 13 - 15 to keep it charged and not fry the battery.
If you are not getting power to the battery-operated could still be the fuse
There is one for sale on ebay, click link below.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAWASAKI-ZXR750-ZX...
The rectifier is usually found inside the alternator. Remove the cap nuts,take past its sell-by date the end cap.The brush assembly,regulator and rectifier can adjectives now be removed and checked.When you are testing the rectifier do NOT!! use a megger or a meter next to large capacity battery-operated or the rectifier will be damaged.
The rectifier is usually found inside the alternator. Remove the cap nuts,take past its sell-by date the end cap.The brush assembly,regulator and rectifier can adjectives now be removed and checked.When you are testing the rectifier do NOT!! use a megger or a meter next to large capacity battery-operated or the rectifier will be damaged.
Answers: These guys do replacement electrical parts for bikes. They are UK base but ship worldwide.
The reg/rec part for the ZXR is here:http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/#1319X0
Good luck mate.
The regulator & rectifier are incorporated inside of the generator.
A couple of times I've just given up and replaced the entire component.
You want to waste your time testing and replacing parts?
Purchase a shop guide for explicite instructions.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
Good luck.
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
There is sometimes a fuse within the charging system that may be blown.
The rectifier is usually underneath the right hand panel as you are sitting on bike, it needs to be contained by accessible place due to having the need to expel seriously of heat so shouldn't be hard to find if it's not at hand.
Edit:
Obviously not the same as my 400 then, anyway. If your alternator is putting out 20-30 volts it is course too much, should be between 13 - 15 to keep it charged and not fry the battery.
If you are not getting power to the battery-operated could still be the fuse
There is one for sale on ebay, click link below.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAWASAKI-ZXR750-ZX...
The rectifier is usually found inside the alternator. Remove the cap nuts,take past its sell-by date the end cap.The brush assembly,regulator and rectifier can adjectives now be removed and checked.When you are testing the rectifier do NOT!! use a megger or a meter next to large capacity battery-operated or the rectifier will be damaged.
I suspect your alternator has a damaged rectifier module, which possible also damaged the regulator. Both are mounted in the alternator assembly. You said you hold 20-30 volts output- did you check DC voltage. or AC? Sounds like AC, which would not charge a battery. If it is DC, it mechanism the regulator is bad. The battery would be destroyed surrounded by a short time by this. With a good meter, you can determine what is wrong, parts are available to repair it, or, you can replace the alternator. If you plan to repair it your self, it can without doubt be done, cheaper than a new alternator.
Do you have a repair guide? If so, it should have a section on trouble shooting and repair of the alternator. If not, bring back a digital VOM, and you may contact me for more detailed instructions.
Tomcotexas
tomcotexas(a)yahoo.com
I suspect your alternator has a damaged rectifier module, which possible also damaged the regulator. Both are mounted in the alternator assembly. You said you hold 20-30 volts output- did you check DC voltage. or AC? Sounds like AC, which would not charge a battery. If it is DC, it mechanism the regulator is bad. The battery would be destroyed surrounded by a short time by this. With a good meter, you can determine what is wrong, parts are available to repair it, or, you can replace the alternator. If you plan to repair it your self, it can without doubt be done, cheaper than a new alternator.
Do you have a repair guide? If so, it should have a section on trouble shooting and repair of the alternator. If not, bring back a digital VOM, and you may contact me for more detailed instructions.
Tomcotexas
tomcotexas(a)yahoo.com
Protect my motorcycle contained by winter?
There is sometimes a fuse within the charging system that may be blown.
The rectifier is usually underneath the right hand panel as you are sitting on bike, it needs to be contained by accessible place due to having the need to expel seriously of heat so shouldn't be hard to find if it's not at hand.
Edit:
Obviously not the same as my 400 then, anyway. If your alternator is putting out 20-30 volts it is course too much, should be between 13 - 15 to keep it charged and not fry the battery.
If you are not getting power to the battery-operated could still be the fuse
There is one for sale on ebay, click link below.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAWASAKI-ZXR750-ZX...
The rectifier is usually found inside the alternator. Remove the cap nuts,take past its sell-by date the end cap.The brush assembly,regulator and rectifier can adjectives now be removed and checked.When you are testing the rectifier do NOT!! use a megger or a meter next to large capacity battery-operated or the rectifier will be damaged.
50cc scooter insurance for a 16 yr...
The regulator & rectifier are incorporated inside of the generator.
A couple of times I've just given up and replaced the entire component.
You want to waste your time testing and replacing parts?
Purchase a shop guide for explicite instructions.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
Good luck.
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
There is sometimes a fuse within the charging system that may be blown.
The rectifier is usually underneath the right hand panel as you are sitting on bike, it needs to be contained by accessible place due to having the need to expel seriously of heat so shouldn't be hard to find if it's not at hand.
Edit:
Obviously not the same as my 400 then, anyway. If your alternator is putting out 20-30 volts it is course too much, should be between 13 - 15 to keep it charged and not fry the battery.
If you are not getting power to the battery-operated could still be the fuse
There is one for sale on ebay, click link below.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAWASAKI-ZXR750-ZX...
The rectifier is usually found inside the alternator. Remove the cap nuts,take past its sell-by date the end cap.The brush assembly,regulator and rectifier can adjectives now be removed and checked.When you are testing the rectifier do NOT!! use a megger or a meter next to large capacity battery-operated or the rectifier will be damaged.
Hi want to buy a strange pulsar...
Cost of riding motorcycle for full year?
The rectifier is usually found inside the alternator. Remove the cap nuts,take past its sell-by date the end cap.The brush assembly,regulator and rectifier can adjectives now be removed and checked.When you are testing the rectifier do NOT!! use a megger or a meter next to large capacity battery-operated or the rectifier will be damaged.
Answers: These guys do replacement electrical parts for bikes. They are UK base but ship worldwide.
The reg/rec part for the ZXR is here:http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/#1319X0
Good luck mate.
The regulator & rectifier are incorporated inside of the generator.
A couple of times I've just given up and replaced the entire component.
You want to waste your time testing and replacing parts?
Purchase a shop guide for explicite instructions.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
Good luck.
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
There is sometimes a fuse within the charging system that may be blown.
The rectifier is usually underneath the right hand panel as you are sitting on bike, it needs to be contained by accessible place due to having the need to expel seriously of heat so shouldn't be hard to find if it's not at hand.
Edit:
Obviously not the same as my 400 then, anyway. If your alternator is putting out 20-30 volts it is course too much, should be between 13 - 15 to keep it charged and not fry the battery.
If you are not getting power to the battery-operated could still be the fuse
There is one for sale on ebay, click link below.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAWASAKI-ZXR750-ZX...
The rectifier is usually found inside the alternator. Remove the cap nuts,take past its sell-by date the end cap.The brush assembly,regulator and rectifier can adjectives now be removed and checked.When you are testing the rectifier do NOT!! use a megger or a meter next to large capacity battery-operated or the rectifier will be damaged.
I suspect your alternator has a damaged rectifier module, which possible also damaged the regulator. Both are mounted in the alternator assembly. You said you hold 20-30 volts output- did you check DC voltage. or AC? Sounds like AC, which would not charge a battery. If it is DC, it mechanism the regulator is bad. The battery would be destroyed surrounded by a short time by this. With a good meter, you can determine what is wrong, parts are available to repair it, or, you can replace the alternator. If you plan to repair it your self, it can without doubt be done, cheaper than a new alternator.
Do you have a repair guide? If so, it should have a section on trouble shooting and repair of the alternator. If not, bring back a digital VOM, and you may contact me for more detailed instructions.
Tomcotexas
tomcotexas(a)yahoo.com
I deduce my motorcycle is flooded, so...
Follow guardrail's advice. Concerning the 20-30 volts, I assume that be AC voltage directly off the alternator. There should be 3 wires (probably yellow) coming directly from the alternator. With your multi meter, set it for AC voltage and check all three pairs. Example, the right and not here wires, the right and middle wires, the left and middle wires. With the bike running, they shoulld all read pretty much one and the same voltage. If one pair is a lot lower, it's modern stator time.I suspect your alternator has a damaged rectifier module, which possible also damaged the regulator. Both are mounted in the alternator assembly. You said you hold 20-30 volts output- did you check DC voltage. or AC? Sounds like AC, which would not charge a battery. If it is DC, it mechanism the regulator is bad. The battery would be destroyed surrounded by a short time by this. With a good meter, you can determine what is wrong, parts are available to repair it, or, you can replace the alternator. If you plan to repair it your self, it can without doubt be done, cheaper than a new alternator.
Do you have a repair guide? If so, it should have a section on trouble shooting and repair of the alternator. If not, bring back a digital VOM, and you may contact me for more detailed instructions.
Tomcotexas
tomcotexas(a)yahoo.com
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