I would tighten it but am afraid i will not be able to get the cotter pin rear in. still. maybe i should. Why does it hang on to loosening itself?
Sounds like you haven't tightened your axle properly. (Too loose.)
Two likely cause,
1) You may not be setting the adjustments right and failing to tighten the axle fully. Axles usually take around 50lbs or torque.
2) Your tie up may be worn out.
Your question is rather unfocused, I wouldn't know where to start... One thing I can voice is your chain should never rub on anything...PERIOD! If it is, and you can't figure out why, don't ride it, and get hold of a proffesional oppinion. I've heard horror stories of people riding next to ill adjusted chains and have them de-rail or break, flinging a very fast sturdy piece of metal at your foot/leg whatever. You said you were worried around not getting the cotter pin in, I assume you are talking in the region of the axle nut. I wouldn't be suprised if you're not tightening the axle nut enough, just to return with the holes for the cotter pin alligned. If your axle is not tight enough, the rear rudder will shift and your chain will go slack. As the previous poster mentioned, you stipulation to torque your axle down to about 50 ft/lbs (or whatever your manual/dealer says), once you draw from that reading, tighten some more untill you get your cotter pin holes aligned. This requires a torque wrench, if you don't have one, stir buy one, you'll use it on your bike everytime.
Answers: is it a fairly new bike? or a topical chain. new cuff can stretch at first. or if it is a new bike, the stock chains are pretty cheap and crappy and stretch a alot. i bought a new suzuki a few years hindmost and the chain stretched like every time i rode it. honestly. o the replace it near a good x-ring chain and it stretched once every year or two in a minute. the stock chain was stretched out in 6 months. and the new rk brand chain have lasted 8 years. and still going strong. also make sure you are getting the fasten straight and true. with the rear gearstick being equally spaced at the axle bolt.
Two likely cause,
1) You may not be setting the adjustments right and failing to tighten the axle fully. Axles usually take around 50lbs or torque.
2) Your tie up may be worn out.
Your question is rather unfocused, I wouldn't know where to start... One thing I can voice is your chain should never rub on anything...PERIOD! If it is, and you can't figure out why, don't ride it, and get hold of a proffesional oppinion. I've heard horror stories of people riding next to ill adjusted chains and have them de-rail or break, flinging a very fast sturdy piece of metal at your foot/leg whatever. You said you were worried around not getting the cotter pin in, I assume you are talking in the region of the axle nut. I wouldn't be suprised if you're not tightening the axle nut enough, just to return with the holes for the cotter pin alligned. If your axle is not tight enough, the rear rudder will shift and your chain will go slack. As the previous poster mentioned, you stipulation to torque your axle down to about 50 ft/lbs (or whatever your manual/dealer says), once you draw from that reading, tighten some more untill you get your cotter pin holes aligned. This requires a torque wrench, if you don't have one, stir buy one, you'll use it on your bike everytime. Well, most likely you need a unknown chain. If you did not need it when you did the ending tightening, you likely do now. How elderly is the bike and chain? Are the sprockets badly worn? How tight did you tighten the tie up? In the answer to these questions is the answer.
OK, first - how old, ie how lots miles on the bike and chain? If a lot, and how heaps a lot is depends on the size and power of the bike. If the chain and sprockets are already disappointingly worn, they will continue to wear quickly. If a tie up is very badly worn, with the sole purpose proper repair is to replace both chain and sprockets. Bad sprockets will quickly verbs a new chain, and a impossible chain will destroy a modern sprocket just as quick.
If bike/chain/sprockets are not that infirm, I suspect you over tightened the chain. This will quickly verbs the chain, and possibly wheel bearing, sometimes the wheel itself, or the output shaft bearing contained by the transmission. Many folks do not understand how to tightned a cuff properly, and get them much too tight. To correctly check the chain tightness, someone wants to sit on the bike, so the swing arm is level with the ground, At this point you should hold about 1 inch of free up and down play in the manacle. This does not mean you can push it up and down an inch, but that with a finger you can confidently lift it an inch. With no load on the bike, you will enjoy much more up=down free travel. On most bikes, if the chain is set with the bike unloaded, when you sit on the bike, the tie up is much too tight, puts many pounds of tension on the secure, hence the bearings, etc. are under several hundred pounds of tautness.
I would recommend you take the bike by a local shop, and ask them to have a look, if you do not determine the basis of your problem following my steps. I am pretty sure you need a new secure, and maybe sprockets.
Good luck.
Tomcotexas.
Sounds like you haven't tightened your axle properly. (Too loose.)
Your question is rather unfocused, I wouldn't know where to start... One thing I can voice is your chain should never rub on anything...PERIOD! If it is, and you can't figure out why, don't ride it, and get hold of a proffesional oppinion. I've heard horror stories of people riding next to ill adjusted chains and have them de-rail or break, flinging a very fast sturdy piece of metal at your foot/leg whatever. You said you were worried around not getting the cotter pin in, I assume you are talking in the region of the axle nut. I wouldn't be suprised if you're not tightening the axle nut enough, just to return with the holes for the cotter pin alligned. If your axle is not tight enough, the rear rudder will shift and your chain will go slack. As the previous poster mentioned, you stipulation to torque your axle down to about 50 ft/lbs (or whatever your manual/dealer says), once you draw from that reading, tighten some more untill you get your cotter pin holes aligned. This requires a torque wrench, if you don't have one, stir buy one, you'll use it on your bike everytime.
Looking to purchase my first sports bike(suzuki)...
Sounds like you haven't tightened your axle properly. (Too loose.)
What is wrong near my scooter?
Two likely cause,
1) You may not be setting the adjustments right and failing to tighten the axle fully. Axles usually take around 50lbs or torque.
2) Your tie up may be worn out.
Your question is rather unfocused, I wouldn't know where to start... One thing I can voice is your chain should never rub on anything...PERIOD! If it is, and you can't figure out why, don't ride it, and get hold of a proffesional oppinion. I've heard horror stories of people riding next to ill adjusted chains and have them de-rail or break, flinging a very fast sturdy piece of metal at your foot/leg whatever. You said you were worried around not getting the cotter pin in, I assume you are talking in the region of the axle nut. I wouldn't be suprised if you're not tightening the axle nut enough, just to return with the holes for the cotter pin alligned. If your axle is not tight enough, the rear rudder will shift and your chain will go slack. As the previous poster mentioned, you stipulation to torque your axle down to about 50 ft/lbs (or whatever your manual/dealer says), once you draw from that reading, tighten some more untill you get your cotter pin holes aligned. This requires a torque wrench, if you don't have one, stir buy one, you'll use it on your bike everytime.
Thinking of buying a Kawasaki GPZ 750...
Answers: is it a fairly new bike? or a topical chain. new cuff can stretch at first. or if it is a new bike, the stock chains are pretty cheap and crappy and stretch a alot. i bought a new suzuki a few years hindmost and the chain stretched like every time i rode it. honestly. o the replace it near a good x-ring chain and it stretched once every year or two in a minute. the stock chain was stretched out in 6 months. and the new rk brand chain have lasted 8 years. and still going strong. also make sure you are getting the fasten straight and true. with the rear gearstick being equally spaced at the axle bolt.
Two likely cause,
1) You may not be setting the adjustments right and failing to tighten the axle fully. Axles usually take around 50lbs or torque.
2) Your tie up may be worn out.
Your question is rather unfocused, I wouldn't know where to start... One thing I can voice is your chain should never rub on anything...PERIOD! If it is, and you can't figure out why, don't ride it, and get hold of a proffesional oppinion. I've heard horror stories of people riding next to ill adjusted chains and have them de-rail or break, flinging a very fast sturdy piece of metal at your foot/leg whatever. You said you were worried around not getting the cotter pin in, I assume you are talking in the region of the axle nut. I wouldn't be suprised if you're not tightening the axle nut enough, just to return with the holes for the cotter pin alligned. If your axle is not tight enough, the rear rudder will shift and your chain will go slack. As the previous poster mentioned, you stipulation to torque your axle down to about 50 ft/lbs (or whatever your manual/dealer says), once you draw from that reading, tighten some more untill you get your cotter pin holes aligned. This requires a torque wrench, if you don't have one, stir buy one, you'll use it on your bike everytime. Well, most likely you need a unknown chain. If you did not need it when you did the ending tightening, you likely do now. How elderly is the bike and chain? Are the sprockets badly worn? How tight did you tighten the tie up? In the answer to these questions is the answer.
OK, first - how old, ie how lots miles on the bike and chain? If a lot, and how heaps a lot is depends on the size and power of the bike. If the chain and sprockets are already disappointingly worn, they will continue to wear quickly. If a tie up is very badly worn, with the sole purpose proper repair is to replace both chain and sprockets. Bad sprockets will quickly verbs a new chain, and a impossible chain will destroy a modern sprocket just as quick.
If bike/chain/sprockets are not that infirm, I suspect you over tightened the chain. This will quickly verbs the chain, and possibly wheel bearing, sometimes the wheel itself, or the output shaft bearing contained by the transmission. Many folks do not understand how to tightned a cuff properly, and get them much too tight. To correctly check the chain tightness, someone wants to sit on the bike, so the swing arm is level with the ground, At this point you should hold about 1 inch of free up and down play in the manacle. This does not mean you can push it up and down an inch, but that with a finger you can confidently lift it an inch. With no load on the bike, you will enjoy much more up=down free travel. On most bikes, if the chain is set with the bike unloaded, when you sit on the bike, the tie up is much too tight, puts many pounds of tension on the secure, hence the bearings, etc. are under several hundred pounds of tautness.
I would recommend you take the bike by a local shop, and ask them to have a look, if you do not determine the basis of your problem following my steps. I am pretty sure you need a new secure, and maybe sprockets.
Good luck.
Tomcotexas.
Sounds like you haven't tightened your axle properly. (Too loose.)
Your question is rather unfocused, I wouldn't know where to start... One thing I can voice is your chain should never rub on anything...PERIOD! If it is, and you can't figure out why, don't ride it, and get hold of a proffesional oppinion. I've heard horror stories of people riding next to ill adjusted chains and have them de-rail or break, flinging a very fast sturdy piece of metal at your foot/leg whatever. You said you were worried around not getting the cotter pin in, I assume you are talking in the region of the axle nut. I wouldn't be suprised if you're not tightening the axle nut enough, just to return with the holes for the cotter pin alligned. If your axle is not tight enough, the rear rudder will shift and your chain will go slack. As the previous poster mentioned, you stipulation to torque your axle down to about 50 ft/lbs (or whatever your manual/dealer says), once you draw from that reading, tighten some more untill you get your cotter pin holes aligned. This requires a torque wrench, if you don't have one, stir buy one, you'll use it on your bike everytime.
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