I have an after flea market 535cc jug and a SuperTrapp exhaust. The engine pings when below a load especially when its hot. I replaced the spark plug but it made little or no difference. I enjoy a thick stack of plates at the closing of the SuperTrapp. A friend told me if I remove some it may help. Also if I go to a cooler spark plug it could help.
What do you folks regard?
Thanks
Steve
Answers: Steve,,
You can TRY raising the plunger in the carb one notch/lower the clip on it.
If it's a marginal armour of pinging,,that MIGHT richen it up enough cool it bad enough to stop the ping.
.........................................
A "cooler plug" will individual help at full throttle below load,,and at high-ranking rpms.
And only IF the spark plug ITSELF is running too hot>>ie:not transferring combustion chamber temps speedily enough.
It's a adjectives misconception that Spark Plugs' heat capacity affect anything otherwise.
It can't really hurt to Try a colder one,though...if ya want to.
But Spark Plugs dont control Combustion Chamber Temps,,,it actually works vice-versa.
The solely reason for "Cold Plugs" is to avoid them going into auto-ignition temp zone and becoming GLOW PLUGS
....................................
Going Up a size or 2 on Main Jet may relief solve it.
......................................
Ultimately ,,what You'll most probably have to do is Retard the Ignition Timing leisurely until it quits acting bad.
If it be mine,,I'd follow this protocol:
1)Check Cranking Compression.
If it's 160 or less,,,
a)Try raise Jet Needle
b) Then try increasing main spray size
If cranking pressure is over 150~160 psi,,,,I'd start retarding the Ignition Timing a couple degrees at a time.
Reason why,,,that's going on for the range at which Compression begin to get Too High for Pump Gas on those motors.
You CAN cool it bad with Bigger Jets & solve the pinging,,,,but within many cases that's just "Compensation" ,,,Not Tuning.
And the mixture will be Too Rich at High Speed/Max rpm/full throttle.
Or on any Cool or Humid days the higher/richer needle position will motivation blubbering at part-throttle cruise.
"Book Settings" on Jets,Timing,Valve Clearance,Plugs,etc are all Standard,OEM,,,Overall average "compromise" settings.
It's a BASELINE utility,,,for EVERYBODY,,EVERYWHERE
It's safe and fine to Deviate from the standards when prerequisite or so desired to do so.
There's a Small latitude of allowances to accomodate fine tuning,,,modified engine set-up& tuning,etc
Juggling ignition timing to suit big bore kit/hi-compression/exhaust mods is rather "standard procedure"
It's IMPOSSIBLE to correctly catch carb jetting dialed in when ignition timing is INCORRECT.
The Mixture get very "Spotty" within overall throttle -vs-rpm-vs load ranges.
Meaning,,For Example,,,You can get hold of it GREAT for Steady cruising at 50,,,,but then it's too Lean at High.
Get it Right at HiSpeeds,,,and it blubbers and stutters anytime ya try to hurry up without downshifting & revving it.
You hold to START by getting Ignition Timing dialed in to suit YOUR individual Engine Build and Running Environment.
"Factory Setting" is VERY UNLIKELY to be "Ideal" for a Big Bore/Pipe/and almost Surely what is relatively Very High Compression.
Your Engine Combo and it's operating environment requires a Specific ignition timing to optimize the combustion characteristics of the Physical Properties of the Engine.
THEN you can adjust the Combustion CHEMISTRY of Carb settings and jetting under more stable PHYSICAL Combustion Properties.
Result is >>>it's easier to tune,,,and a given setting accomodates a far wider collection of operating conditions.
Starts/Idles/Runs smoother and stronger ,,,cleaner,,and more efficient.
LOTS better than trying to TRICK it into accepting outa-whack conditions by covering-up Symptoms beside Bottle-O-Octane,,,Race Gas,,Richer Jets,Lower Gearing,or whatever.
All that crap is only just a Narrow Band Patch.
If you happen to see over going on for 170~180 cranking PSI on a compression gauge.......
Even "Personalized" Ignition Timing begin to leave the dominion of TUNING,,,and edges over into the class of Cover-Up "Patch".
The kinda Compression Ratios which produce such numbers GENERALLY are result of piston/head combos>Static Compression Ratios>>intended for use with Long Duration Camshafts,,ie;"Race Cams".
The Later Intake Valve Closing events result contained by Less Trapped Volume to compress.
So,,,Lower Cranking Compression,,,,Lower Vacuum,,LESS Cylinder Filling at Lower speeds,,,thus LESS Cylinder Pressure.
So the engine ACTS like it's get Lower Physical Compression Ratio.....up to a point in the RPM list.
Which is why VERY HIGH compression engines can run "OK" on pump gas when they have "Hot Cams" ,,,,
but will Ping close to crazy with Stock Cams.
They become "semi-diesels" at low speeds below load.
It's result of Compression Heating and precipitate actual ignition.
If you're mechanically-inclined type and have a service encyclopaedia,,,or know how to adjust ignition timing,,,
I can explain how to find and test just right timing for your specific set-up.
But this is getting to long winded already.
If your cranking compression happens to be extremely high-ranking,,,you can work around that without the expense of a exotic cam.
But as a Do-it-Yourself fix,,,it takes a moderately nutsy-boltsy type of person.
It's cheap/FREE and undemanding other than that.
If You're Not a powered type,,,You'll probly be best to just thieve it to the shop & tell 'em to gain the ping out.
...........................
WHAT EVER you do,,,
It's already Pinging enough to concern you.
And it's already Bad satisfactory to be noticeably worse when it's hotter.
DON'T credit the timing any further.
Plenty Hot enough and auto-igniting impulsive enough already.
Lightin' it even closer results in More Pressure,More Heat,and could efficiently begin to inflict engine damage.
Good luck next to it.
*** Removing more of Trapp's plates will cause it to run even leaner.
Leaner=Hotter.
Wrong direction to treaty with a ping.
What category of gas are you putting in the point? Try a higher octane gas and see if there's a difference. This may fix it in need getting your hands dirty.
What do you folks regard?
Thanks
Steve
Is nearby an alternative to the MSF...
Answers: Steve,,
You can TRY raising the plunger in the carb one notch/lower the clip on it.
If it's a marginal armour of pinging,,that MIGHT richen it up enough cool it bad enough to stop the ping.
.........................................
A "cooler plug" will individual help at full throttle below load,,and at high-ranking rpms.
And only IF the spark plug ITSELF is running too hot>>ie:not transferring combustion chamber temps speedily enough.
It's a adjectives misconception that Spark Plugs' heat capacity affect anything otherwise.
It can't really hurt to Try a colder one,though...if ya want to.
But Spark Plugs dont control Combustion Chamber Temps,,,it actually works vice-versa.
The solely reason for "Cold Plugs" is to avoid them going into auto-ignition temp zone and becoming GLOW PLUGS
....................................
Going Up a size or 2 on Main Jet may relief solve it.
......................................
Ultimately ,,what You'll most probably have to do is Retard the Ignition Timing leisurely until it quits acting bad.
If it be mine,,I'd follow this protocol:
1)Check Cranking Compression.
If it's 160 or less,,,
a)Try raise Jet Needle
b) Then try increasing main spray size
If cranking pressure is over 150~160 psi,,,,I'd start retarding the Ignition Timing a couple degrees at a time.
Reason why,,,that's going on for the range at which Compression begin to get Too High for Pump Gas on those motors.
You CAN cool it bad with Bigger Jets & solve the pinging,,,,but within many cases that's just "Compensation" ,,,Not Tuning.
And the mixture will be Too Rich at High Speed/Max rpm/full throttle.
Or on any Cool or Humid days the higher/richer needle position will motivation blubbering at part-throttle cruise.
"Book Settings" on Jets,Timing,Valve Clearance,Plugs,etc are all Standard,OEM,,,Overall average "compromise" settings.
It's a BASELINE utility,,,for EVERYBODY,,EVERYWHERE
It's safe and fine to Deviate from the standards when prerequisite or so desired to do so.
There's a Small latitude of allowances to accomodate fine tuning,,,modified engine set-up& tuning,etc
Juggling ignition timing to suit big bore kit/hi-compression/exhaust mods is rather "standard procedure"
It's IMPOSSIBLE to correctly catch carb jetting dialed in when ignition timing is INCORRECT.
The Mixture get very "Spotty" within overall throttle -vs-rpm-vs load ranges.
Meaning,,For Example,,,You can get hold of it GREAT for Steady cruising at 50,,,,but then it's too Lean at High.
Get it Right at HiSpeeds,,,and it blubbers and stutters anytime ya try to hurry up without downshifting & revving it.
You hold to START by getting Ignition Timing dialed in to suit YOUR individual Engine Build and Running Environment.
"Factory Setting" is VERY UNLIKELY to be "Ideal" for a Big Bore/Pipe/and almost Surely what is relatively Very High Compression.
Your Engine Combo and it's operating environment requires a Specific ignition timing to optimize the combustion characteristics of the Physical Properties of the Engine.
THEN you can adjust the Combustion CHEMISTRY of Carb settings and jetting under more stable PHYSICAL Combustion Properties.
Result is >>>it's easier to tune,,,and a given setting accomodates a far wider collection of operating conditions.
Starts/Idles/Runs smoother and stronger ,,,cleaner,,and more efficient.
LOTS better than trying to TRICK it into accepting outa-whack conditions by covering-up Symptoms beside Bottle-O-Octane,,,Race Gas,,Richer Jets,Lower Gearing,or whatever.
All that crap is only just a Narrow Band Patch.
If you happen to see over going on for 170~180 cranking PSI on a compression gauge.......
Even "Personalized" Ignition Timing begin to leave the dominion of TUNING,,,and edges over into the class of Cover-Up "Patch".
The kinda Compression Ratios which produce such numbers GENERALLY are result of piston/head combos>Static Compression Ratios>>intended for use with Long Duration Camshafts,,ie;"Race Cams".
The Later Intake Valve Closing events result contained by Less Trapped Volume to compress.
So,,,Lower Cranking Compression,,,,Lower Vacuum,,LESS Cylinder Filling at Lower speeds,,,thus LESS Cylinder Pressure.
So the engine ACTS like it's get Lower Physical Compression Ratio.....up to a point in the RPM list.
Which is why VERY HIGH compression engines can run "OK" on pump gas when they have "Hot Cams" ,,,,
but will Ping close to crazy with Stock Cams.
They become "semi-diesels" at low speeds below load.
It's result of Compression Heating and precipitate actual ignition.
If you're mechanically-inclined type and have a service encyclopaedia,,,or know how to adjust ignition timing,,,
I can explain how to find and test just right timing for your specific set-up.
But this is getting to long winded already.
If your cranking compression happens to be extremely high-ranking,,,you can work around that without the expense of a exotic cam.
But as a Do-it-Yourself fix,,,it takes a moderately nutsy-boltsy type of person.
It's cheap/FREE and undemanding other than that.
If You're Not a powered type,,,You'll probly be best to just thieve it to the shop & tell 'em to gain the ping out.
...........................
WHAT EVER you do,,,
It's already Pinging enough to concern you.
And it's already Bad satisfactory to be noticeably worse when it's hotter.
DON'T credit the timing any further.
Plenty Hot enough and auto-igniting impulsive enough already.
Lightin' it even closer results in More Pressure,More Heat,and could efficiently begin to inflict engine damage.
Good luck next to it.
*** Removing more of Trapp's plates will cause it to run even leaner.
Leaner=Hotter.
Wrong direction to treaty with a ping.
Do you attain muddy on a 300ex??
What category of gas are you putting in the point? Try a higher octane gas and see if there's a difference. This may fix it in need getting your hands dirty.
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